Adjusting the Action: Open String or Fretted String?

[FenderGuy53]

Whenever there is discussion about adjusting the action on a guitar, the author typically mentions the appropriate measurements from top of fret to bottom of string, and the numbered fret from where the measurement is taken; however, there is often no mention about whether or not a string is fretted while making the measurement.

Regarding the G&L Tribute guitars, is action adjusted on the open string or on a fretted string?

Thanks, guys.

[yowhatsshakin]

I don't think it s any different for Tribute vs. US made G&L's or 3-bolt vs 4-bolt (6-bolt for basses) for that matter. In the version 2 of the Owner's Manual in the Gallery, this page says to measure the height at fret #8 while the string is fretted simultaneously at fret #1 and #22. I think a lot of people put a capo at the first fret so it becomes a little easier with your 2 hands. But be aware that that measurement is more indicative of the relief in your neck than the action overall which also involves the nut slot depths and bridge/saddle heights.

Hope this helps,

- Jos

[louis cyfer]

I don't think it s any different for Tribute vs. US made G&L's or 3-bolt vs 4-bolt (6-bolt for basses) for that matter. In the version 2 of the Owner's Manual in the Gallery, this page says to measure the height at fret #8 while the string is fretted simultaneously at fret #1 and #22. I think a lot of people put a capo at the first fret so it becomes a little easier with your 2 hands. But be aware that that measurement is more indicative of the relief in your neck than the action overall which also involves the nut slot depths and bridge/saddle heights.

Hope this helps,

- Jos

jos, he is asking action, not relief.
all guitars are measured for action from an open string.

[FenderGuy53]

I don't think it s any different for Tribute vs. US made G&L's or 3-bolt vs 4-bolt (6-bolt for basses) for that matter. In the version 2 of the Owner's Manual in the Gallery, this page says to measure the height at fret #8 while the string is fretted simultaneously at fret #1 and #22. I think a lot of people put a capo at the first fret so it becomes a little easier with your 2 hands. But be aware that that measurement is more indicative of the relief in your neck than the action overall which also involves the nut slot depths and bridge/saddle heights.

Hope this helps,

- Jos

jos, he is asking action, not relief.
all guitars are measured for action from an open string.

Really? Is this a personal preference or a statement of fact. I'm not challenging you; I'd just like to know for sure. If there are different ways to do it, then I'd like to be able to choose what works best for me.

In Dan Erlewine's "Guitar Player Repair Guide", he uses capo on the 1st fret when measuring action. You can now see my confusion.

Thanks.

[louis cyfer]

I don't think it s any different for Tribute vs. US made G&L's or 3-bolt vs 4-bolt (6-bolt for basses) for that matter. In the version 2 of the Owner's Manual in the Gallery, this page says to measure the height at fret #8 while the string is fretted simultaneously at fret #1 and #22. I think a lot of people put a capo at the first fret so it becomes a little easier with your 2 hands. But be aware that that measurement is more indicative of the relief in your neck than the action overall which also involves the nut slot depths and bridge/saddle heights.

Hope this helps,

- Jos

jos, he is asking action, not relief.
all guitars are measured for action from an open string.

Really? Is this a personal preference or a statement of fact. I'm not challenging you; I'd just like to know for sure. If there are different ways to do it, then I'd like to be able to choose what works best for me.

In Dan Erlewine's "Guitar Player Repair Guide", he uses capo on the 1st fret when measuring action. You can now see my confusion.

Thanks.

the action is a result of both the nut and the saddle, without an open string, the nut is out of the equation. there is a reason it's not specified, it is considered understood.

[KenC]

I personally don't get hung up on numbers when I'm doing a setup, but then again I'm very aware of my own preferences. I do use a capo at fret #1 and my finger just past fret #22 to check the [u]relief[/u]. I use Tortex guitar picks as feeler gauges to get the relief into the right ballpark (following the factory specs for that era guitar).

I go by feel on action. Generally I adjust the saddles to a comfortable height and then run chromatic scales through every string and fret to check for dead spots. If I get buzzing beyond what I'm willing to accept on that instrument, I either raise the saddle or adjust the neck tilt as needed. Then I repeat the prior steps and finish by adjusting the string lengths to get as close as possible to perfect tuning at the 12th fret.

I'm not suggesting in any way that this is the best way to do it. There could be all kinds of flaws in this process. I'm just offering it up as a way that's worked for me. The main thing is keeping in mind that neck relief, neck angle, saddle height and string length all factor into the distance you have to press a string to fret it at any point on the neck, and whether the string will clear the higher frets from there with the energy you use for picking or plucking. The distance you have to press the string and the length of the string relative to the fretboard are what will primarily determine whether you play in tune. Most importantly, all of these variables are completely inter-related.

I agree completely with Lucifer about the nut and saddle needing to be in the equation for action. They just need to be out of the equation when you check relief.

Ken

[louis cyfer]

for relief you certainly want to fret both 1 and 22. where do you find picks thin enough for checking relief? .010-0.012 usually.

[KenC]

I use Tortex for bass setups. For guitars I have some Dunlop Nylons which are 0.38 mm or 0.014". Those work well for my preferences. I also have some celluloid picks from the 90s that seem slightly thinner, but their logos have long since worn off.

Ken