I have a left handed S-500 with serial # G001506. Going by the G&L chronology #'s that would suggest 1980. But S-500's were not made until 1982 is my understanding.
Can someone help me date this guitar?
Also, I have a series 1 F-100 (left handed). Where do I find the serial number?
I have a left handed S-500 with serial # G001506. Going by the G&L chronology #'s that would suggest 1980. But S-500's were not made until 1982 is my understanding.
Can someone help me date this guitar?
Also, I have a series 1 F-100 (left handed). Where do I find the serial number?
Thanks. I just realized the F-100 bridge is a Kahler. I guess it's a replacement. I don't care. The guitar is beast and very, very cherry. Playing it through a 1952 Tweed Deluxe w/ original speaker and tubes....amazing.
The S-500 is just as good. It's 100% original and the serial number is on the bridge. I'm confused about the serial number because it is extremely early. It's G001506. That's a 1980 serial number on a guitar that wasn't produced until 1982.
BuildTone wrote:
The S-500 is just as good. It's 100% original and the serial number is on the bridge. I'm confused about the serial number because it is extremely early. It's G001506. That's a 1980 serial number on a guitar that wasn't produced until 1982.
BuildTone wrote:Thanks. Sorry. Reading is my friend. I'll take the necks off. Nobody seems to do that with G&Ls. I never see pictures of neck pockets.
There is a bunch, but they are scattered throughout threads. A new thread requesting neck pocket pics might be fruitful. I'd have to search through a few files to gather some shots...but I know I have some archived.
That micro-tilt adjustment can help ease the neck out if it hasn't been off before. Slow is the key ( and raising it up out of the pocket with no side or front to back movements), the tolerances were/are tight at G&L
BuildTone wrote:Thanks. Sorry. Reading is my friend. I'll take the necks off. Nobody seems to do that with G&Ls. I never see pictures of neck pockets.
There is a bunch, but they are scattered throughout threads. A new thread requesting neck pocket pics might be fruitful. I'd have to search through a few files to gather some shots...but I know I have some archived.
That micro-tilt adjustment can help ease the neck out if it hasn't been off before. Slow is the key ( and raising it up out of the pocket with no side or front to back movements), the tolerances were/are tight at G&L
elwood
Gently sliding a razor blade between the neck and any body finish that isn't covered by pick guard is a good idea, before you start loosening the neck screws. The fit can be so tight that small bits of body finish come off with the neck. The blade doesn't need to go deep - just enough to break any adhesion between the neck and body lacquer at the surface.
Thanks for the responses. I appreciate it. I decided to leave the necks on until I actually need to take them off. Why mess with it if it ain't broke? and i'm not selling it. I'm curious but that can wait.
Has anyone ever taken a neck off and experienced any changes in the how the guitar sounds after the neck is put back on?
I can't figure out how to upload images onto this site. I normally find that to be a pretty simple task. I'm on a Macbook. Any tips?
BuildTone wrote:Has anyone ever taken a neck off and experienced any changes in the how the guitar sounds after the neck is put back on?
I've done it with a couple of Fenders and about two dozen G&Ls so far. As long as the neck goes back into the pocket straight and is tightened appropriately there should be no difference. IMO, the key is to put it back with the bolts almost tightened, replace the strings and get them almost up to pitch (no need to tune at this point). Then loosen the bolts slightly so the string tension pulls the neck tightly into the pocket and tighten the bolts down. This has been part of the G&L factory setup process from the beginning. This is also what to do if a neck is knocked out of alignment (typically during shipping).
