String ferrule block

[Lazer]

I just read on the TDPRI forum that the new Asat's are delivered with a delrin string ferrule block.
Is this true?

Cheers
L-zr

[Sprinter 92]

The Asat Classic, Asat Classic Custom and Bluesboy have had plastic string blocks for a few years.

[Lazer]

Wow, that's a real down grade. One of the things that made the Asat's great was that heavy block.
That really makes me think twice about a new one.

Cheers
L-zr

[Craig]

I just read on the TDPRI forum that the new Asat's are delivered with a delrin string ferrule block.
Is this true?

Cheers
L-zr

Wow, that's a real down grade. One of the things that made the Asat's great was that heavy block.
That really makes me think twice about a new one.

Cheers
L-zr

The change from die cast zinc to machined delrin was done in 2005.

[louis cyfer]

i don't think delrin is worse than die cast zinc. if you want a nice solid metal block, go to http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lisle-Guitar-St ... 0633514883

[suave eddie]

I'm not sure why de Lisle still lists that as a replacement for G&L.
In this old thread http://www.guitarsbyleo.com/gldp/index.php3
Blarg talks about his experience using one of these.

Learn from my mistake, kids - always ask dimensions Not only does it only fill half the cavity but I had to file down the edges (of the block, not the guitar Pico!!!) to fit it in - I may has well have made my own. I intend to do make a proper sized one sometime in the future, I can't justify $60 for one from Taipan tone. I have heard the difference made with larger trem blocks on strats and it is significant.

So unless something has changed it is not a 'drop-in' replacement.

Lucifer, have you used these on any of your guitars?

[Lazer]

i don't think delrin is worse than die cast zinc. if you want a nice solid metal block, go to http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lisle-Guitar-St ... 0633514883

Ohh yes, It's a huge difference. I want real string anchors if I pay premium prices.
That old block is one of the reasons my Asat classic has an edge any Fender tele,
when it comes to responsiveness and sustain.

Cheers
L-zr

[louis cyfer]

i don't think delrin is worse than die cast zinc. if you want a nice solid metal block, go to http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lisle-Guitar-St ... 0633514883

Ohh yes, It's a huge difference. I want real string anchors if I pay premium prices.
That old block is one of the reasons my Asat classic has an edge any Fender tele,
when it comes to responsiveness and sustain.

Cheers
L-zr

how do you know?

[Lazer]

By experimeting with string anchors. The easiest way tp prove to Yourself is to
play with the ferrules on a standard Telecaster. You don't even have to remove
the strings. I haven't tried this one, but it was suggested to me to make thick
"slotted plastic washer" and use it as a "ferrule extension", or better if You compare
a "top loaded" bridge with a standard tele bridge...
Don't tell me it doesn't make a difference...

I have done a lot of over/under experiments with abr-1 type brigdes, and the overall
conclusion is that the bridge and how the strings are anchored is extremely important
to the how the instrument behaves.

Right now I am fighting with a parts caster that I know will sound great, but I have
not yet figured out what bridge to use.

Cheers
L-zr

[louis cyfer]

By experimeting with string anchors. The easiest way tp prove to Yourself is to
play with the ferrules on a standard Telecaster. You don't even have to remove
the strings. I haven't tried this one, but it was suggested to me to make thick
"slotted plastic washer" and use it as a "ferrule extension", or better if You compare
a "top loaded" bridge with a standard tele bridge...
Don't tell me it doesn't make a difference...

I have done a lot of over/under experiments with abr-1 type brigdes, and the overall
conclusion is that the bridge and how the strings are anchored is extremely important
to the how the instrument behaves.

Right now I am fighting with a parts caster that I know will sound great, but I have
not yet figured out what bridge to use.

Cheers
L-zr

none of this shows how you know that the old cheap pot metal block was the reason that your asat classic had the edge over fender teles.

[Lazer]

I don't want to argue with You, I have seen what happens in other threads.
If You don't understand ny point above I can't help You.

Cheers
L-zr

[louis cyfer]

I don't want to argue with You, I have seen what happens in other threads.
If You don't understand ny point above I can't help You.

Cheers
L-zr

i understand your point, but that is not sufficient information to determine what you are claiming, it's just a guess. and that still doesn't establish that the cheap pot metal bar is better than the delrin one. i am not saying the thing you are pointing out, like the difference between a top loader and a standard tele bridge are not valid. but the string angle, the pressure on the saddle etc also play big roles. you'd have to swap the delrin and the zinc block back and forth in a few guitars to have any information regarding them, otherwise you are just making it up out of thin air. the other differences do not necessarily translate from one design to the other.

[KenC]

A REAL string anchor for an ASAT :



I get sustain for days with these, even on the ones with a Kahler at the other end. I'm sure it has nothing to do with maple bodies or a quarter century of being "played in", either!

Please ignore the string windings. They were the previous owner's work...

Ken

[louis cyfer]

A REAL string anchor for an ASAT :



I get sustain for days with these, even on the ones with a Kahler at the other end. I'm sure it has nothing to do with maple bodies or a quarter century of being "played in", either!

Please ignore the string windings. They were the previous owner's work...

Ken

[djyne]

I don't want to argue with You, I have seen what happens in other threads.
If You don't understand ny point above I can't help You.

Cheers
L-zr

Rutters can make you one.
Please check my thread : http://guitarsbyleo.com/FORUM/viewtopic ... 806#p43806

[djyne]

i understand your point, but that is not sufficient information to determine what you are claiming, it's just a guess. and that still doesn't establish that the cheap pot metal bar is better than the delrin one. i am not saying the thing you are pointing out, like the difference between a top loader and a standard tele bridge are not valid. but the string angle, the pressure on the saddle etc also play big roles. you'd have to swap the delrin and the zinc block back and forth in a few guitars to have any information regarding them, otherwise you are just making it up out of thin air. the other differences do not necessarily translate from one design to the other.

Hi Cyfer,

on this thread there's a nice comparison between different tone block on a partscaster I think (with soundfiles, I've found significants differences between them, I'll get a stainless one )
http://www.tdpri.com/forum/telecaster-d ... -real.html

Boris Bubannov tried the brass and the aluminum ones and DOES find a difference (http://www.tdpri.com/forum/telecaster-d ... ost4365716)

Me? I don't know really, I'll probably make a thread when I'll get mine (as Craig asked me, I owe him that )

[KenC]

Boris Bubannov tried the brass and the aluminum ones and DOES find a difference

I imagine this would be something like the brass nuts used on Fender Jazz Basses in the 70s. I had one on my Jazz's original neck, and it definitely imparted more ring and zing to a set of Rotosounds, compared to other nut materials that were used earlier or later.

Ken

[louis cyfer]

i understand your point, but that is not sufficient information to determine what you are claiming, it's just a guess. and that still doesn't establish that the cheap pot metal bar is better than the delrin one. i am not saying the thing you are pointing out, like the difference between a top loader and a standard tele bridge are not valid. but the string angle, the pressure on the saddle etc also play big roles. you'd have to swap the delrin and the zinc block back and forth in a few guitars to have any information regarding them, otherwise you are just making it up out of thin air. the other differences do not necessarily translate from one design to the other.

Hi Cyfer,

on this thread there's a nice comparison between different tone block on a partscaster I think (with soundfiles, I've found significants differences between them, I'll get a stainless one )
http://www.tdpri.com/forum/telecaster-d ... -real.html

Boris Bubannov tried the brass and the aluminum ones and DOES find a difference (http://www.tdpri.com/forum/telecaster-d ... ost4365716)

Me? I don't know really, I'll probably make a thread when I'll get mine (as Craig asked me, I owe him that )

taipantone doesn't exist anymore and that still doesn't tell us anything about delron and cheap pot metal. i am well aware of the benefits of the taipantone bars.

[Lazer]

Rutters can make you one.
Please check my thread : http://guitarsbyleo.com/FORUM/viewtopic ... 806#p43806

Thats, not happening, will not pay premium for something that needs fixing.
I will either accecpt it as it is or look for something else.
I was looking for a blues boy since Thomann is now carrying G&L, but I think
I will move direction to Fender instead, maybe a telebration 52 hot rod, we'll see

Cheers
L-zr

[djyne]

Rutters can make you one.
Please check my thread : http://guitarsbyleo.com/FORUM/viewtopic ... 806#p43806

Thats, not happening, will not pay premium for something that needs fixing.
I will either accecpt it as it is or look for something else.
I was looking for a blues boy since Thomann is now carrying G&L, but I think
I will move direction to Fender instead, maybe a telebration 52 hot rod, we'll see

Cheers
L-zr

The G&L will be cheaper even if you upgrade some parts, and you'll have a better guitar in the end IMO.
(not to say you can CUSTOM order one to YOUR specs for the price of an american telecaster... )

[Lazer]

Over here on the other side of the pond G&L's are more expensive. But that
doesn't matter. What matters is wether it meets my expectations or not.

Cheers
L-zr

[djyne]

Where do you live?
I live in France and I ordered my Asat Classic from PGS in the US.

[Lazer]

I live in Sweden, I will not by an instrument unseen. Even if I did i wouldn't
order from the US. The duties are too high. I would by it in connection with
going either to Germany or the UK.
We have plenty of Fenders here at approximately thomann prices so thats
an easier path to go down.

[NickHorne]

Same price issue here in England.
But I would still take an Asat over any Fender (over pretty much anything, actually), because some aspects are unique and important.
If the delrin block bothered me, I would just change it. I think I could make a really nice-fitting, shiny DIY job of a stainless one in a couple of careful, enjoyable hours.
And have my wonderful wide-heeled neck (instead of the Fender vertigo effect), ace woods for the money (yes, even at European prices), great fretting, pickups and... and...

And Fender also seem hell-bent on chucking their 54 / 55mm bridge spacing; they're almost as tight as Gibsons now, it's the end of Fender being fingerpickable or hybrid-pickable. WHY? Just so they can fit regular-size humbuckers or something? I've seen new Strats where the strings miss the magnets altogether. Or are they trying to stop us falling off the fingerboard (at last)? If so, they're doing it all wrong; they need a wider board (like a G&L.....)

On the topic of string trees, that chunky "overbridge" job looks great for behind-the-nut bends! No more risk of a string slipping out and delivering an unpleasant surprise of some random wrong pitch when you let it go. I guess an equivalent could be made to fit in place of a modern string tree; just a block with holes through it for the strings, and another for the screw. Ease the entry and exit points nicely, Nut Sauce, happiness?

[sirmyghin]

^^

Pretty much where I draw the line too. The nut width offering from G&L also owns. As far as G&L's being 'premium' prices though, I am just going to sit back and chuckle. The guitar world gets a hell of a lot more expensive than even import costs can make a G&L.

[KenC]

On the topic of string trees, that chunky "overbridge" job looks great for behind-the-nut bends!

That's the original on an '86 ASAT. Every G&L six-string that I'm aware of had this type prior to 1988. They're ugly, but IMO they work perfectly well.

Ken

[suave eddie]

Every G&L six-string that I'm aware of had this type prior to 1988.

I've never seen a string tree like that one. My SC-1 has one that is not as heavy and the top is concave. I don't have a photo close-up of it, but this auction for an SC-3 has the same type and there is a photo of it close up.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-G-L-SC-3-g ... 824wt_1186

The one in your photo also looks like there is something inside of it pushing the strings even lower.

[KenC]

've never seen a string tree like that one. My SC-1 has one that is not as heavy and the top is concave.

I meant this general type was used up to '88, but I see what you mean about the completely squared-off top and metal insert. I just checked my other oldies that were close at hand. Five of them have the concave top without the insert, and the other (an '86 ASAT with Kahler and locking nut) doesn't have a string tree. I know at least one of my others has the squared top and insert.

That insert you see touching the strings is a thin, flexible piece of metal. It seems to bend and vibrate with the strings, probably to prevent stress at that one point.

Ken

[louis cyfer]

've never seen a string tree like that one. My SC-1 has one that is not as heavy and the top is concave.

I meant this general type was used up to '88, but I see what you mean about the completely squared-off top and metal insert. I just checked my other oldies that were close at hand. Five of them have the concave top without the insert, and the other (an '86 ASAT with Kahler and locking nut) doesn't have a string tree. I know at least one of my others has the squared top and insert.

That insert you see touching the strings is a thin, flexible piece of metal. It seems to bend and vibrate with the strings, probably to prevent stress at that one point.

Ken

it can't be that thin, it holds the strings down with the strings at full tension.

[KenC]

I meant that it's thin in comparison to the rest of the string tree. It doesn't seem like the edge is squared off, at least. I've never taken it off to check it, and don't have a line of sight when it's installed.

Maybe during the next string change...

Ken