A question about necks (not about size)

[chedwerks]

I have an ASAT tribute and I really love the guitar. Not in the 'just for the money' but I just really bonded well with it. My only issue, and I do understand part of this is my technique, is that when I play fast I sometimes push the high 'e' off of the fretboard and obviously when this happens I lose the note. I was in my local shop the other day playing an american strat and this didn't happen. With this I decided to try out a coupe of other USA Fenders and again I didn't have the problem that I have with my guitar. I was wondering if there is some sort of shaping that is done on higher end guitar necks to keep the string from leaving the neck? I don't know if it has something to do with it but the screw closest to the bottom on that bridge sadlle is super low making the saddle on an angle. If it isn't like that the string is practicly a foot off of the fretboard. Sorry if this is a dumb question.

[yowhatsshakin]

Hi chedwerks,

This seems to happen more frequently the more a fretboard is curved. Your Tribute should have a 9" radius. It could very well be that these Fenders you tried have a 12" radius. Note that the US made ASAT by default would come with an even stronger curved 7.5" fretboard although many dealers will order them with a 12" board. And of course the width will have some influence on it too but I don't think that will be all too different if at all.

Hope this helps,

- Jos

[chedwerks]

Can't believe I didn't think about that. Appreciate it, I'm sure that's what it is. I love playing as much as I can but I don't always think about the technical aspects. I asked cause I'm trying to get better at understanding why stuff on guitars and amps work so thanks. I have heard that 12 fretboards give a better feel for bends for most people and I had planned on getting one on the next G&L I order whenever I stop being broke all the time.

[blargfromouterspace]

It could be the radius but as far as I know most American Fenders have a 9.5" radius, virtually the same as your ASAT. I suggest checking your bridge, in particular check the saddles on the high E string. You can tilt the saddle to face away from the edge of the fingerboard by adjusting the screws on either side of the saddle. While this will only give you a few nanometers of extra fretboard but you'd be surprised at how much difference it can make - it worked for me when I had this problem on. If that doesnt work you could put something between the saddle and the edge of the bridge to push it over a bit.

[Philby]

Another thing to check is that the neck is perfectly square in the neck pocket. If it is slightly misaligned the high E might be forced closer to the edge than normal.

Necks quite often move a fraction during transit. It's just a matter of loosening the bolts on the neck, straightening the neck then retightening the bolts.

I've got a tribute ASAT special and the high E string doesn't have any tendency to fall off. I reckon you can overcome the problem with a little adjustment. Good luck.

[NickHorne]

Two last check-points that cross my mind:
If your Asat has a saddle-lock bridge, rather than the "traditional tele"-type, don't forget to relax the grub-screw in the treble side, which presses the "stack" of saddles together, before you adjust the saddle-height screws, and then remember to tighten it again (just moderately, not fiercely) afterwards. If yours is a traditional tele bridge, simply adjust away, no side-screw to worry about.
Generally a good idea to keep saddles in a saddle-lock type all set "flat". Not all at the same heights, obviously, but each one parallel to the guitar's top, not tilted into a camber like the neck. Otherwise, the lock screw will try and straighten them up when you tighten it, and leave screws in mid-air with unhappy, rattly / buzzy results. Keep the saddles flat, then the lock-screw can do its job of keeping the stack tight and solid without any side-effects. Again, with a trad bridge, there's no lock screw involved, but I'd still advise against tilted saddles; it can increase the overall string spacing (not what your problem needs!) and also cause mysterious noises-off that you don't want.

The other thought: if you've checked the proper straightness of the neck in the pocket, it might be worth checking the nut. I once met an new, expensive "signature" Fender that had its nut fitted way off-centre; never met this on a G&L, but perhaps anything's possible? Anyhow, you want something like 3mm from the centres of each of the E-strings to the edge of the fingerboard, at the nut end. Much less than 2.5mm at the treble side would certainly make me feel a bit insecure. Nut fettling / moving / replacement isn't a DIY job for many of us, but neither is it a big deal, and doesn't cost much to have done by someone with the proper skills.

[yowhatsshakin]

It could be the radius but as far as I know most American Fenders have a 9.5" radius, virtually the same as your ASAT.

Thanks for that piece of info Jamie. Although there are a few 12" models out there (like the Jim Root model), indeed most Fender, and Squire for that matter, Tele models have either 7.25" or 9.5" radii. So I agree that the curvature is not likely the cause. Indeed, try the other suggestions. For the seating of the neck in the pocket there might be some useful information in this New Legacy - string alignment issue from last year.

Hope this helps,

- Jos

[Craig]

It could be the radius but as far as I know most American Fenders have a 9.5" radius, virtually the same as your ASAT.

Thanks for that piece of info Jamie. Although there are a few 12" models out there (like the Jim Root model), indeed most Fender, and Squire for that matter, Tele models have either 7.25" or 9.5" radii. So I agree that the curvature is not likely the cause. Indeed, try the other suggestions. For the seating of the neck in the pocket there might be some useful information in this New Legacy - string alignment issue from last year.

Hope this helps,

- Jos

Another post, in our Knowledgebase, G&L Tech Tips sub-forum: String alignment issues and a simple cure,
might be helpful, too.

Hope this helps.

[chedwerks]

Thanks guys, these all seem like really good solutions. I thought for a long time it was my technique alone, which I still will admit is a contributing factor, but I think the idea of lowering one side of the saddle and raising the other should work pretty well. Guitars are overall actually pretty simple beasts, especially ASATs and Teles.
Good idea on checking the neck pocket too but it seems to be fine. It's definitely something having to do with that saddle. I'd have posted a picture if all my extra money wasn't going to gear instead of a camera...I think some of you know what I'm talkin about there

[sirmyghin]

Thanks guys, these all seem like really good solutions. I thought for a long time it was my technique alone, which I still will admit is a contributing factor, but I think the idea of lowering one side of the saddle and raising the other should work pretty well. Guitars are overall actually pretty simple beasts, especially ASATs and Teles.
Good idea on checking the neck pocket too but it seems to be fine. It's definitely something having to do with that saddle. I'd have posted a picture if all my extra money wasn't going to gear instead of a camera...I think some of you know what I'm talkin about there

If the neck pocket is fine, it is unfortunately technique alone. All these fixes however are just compensation for technique. Good luck though.

[blargfromouterspace]

If the neck pocket is fine, it is unfortunately technique alone. All these fixes however are just compensation for technique. Good luck though.

Not true. Sometimes that high E string is too close to the edge of the fret, and because the frets slope down to the edge of the fingerboard, even a slight movement can push the string over the edge which sounds horrible. I'm not claiming my technique is perfect, far from it, but I had the exact same problem Chedwerks is having on the ASAT in the picture above (which, for the record, has a 12" radius) even when playing chords. Tweaking the saddle sorted it out. Takes all of a minute to do.

[sirmyghin]

I would say the fretwork was filed too angled in that case then you it is not possible to fret it without hitting the angle. I haven't had that problem on any of my guitars, even my learners. I used to play on 9s too.