G&L and B-Bender Question

[Ray65]

Hello folks, from Ray. This is my 1st post and I hope this is the right section of the form.

Anyhoo, I'm looking into getting a Hipshot Bender... the model that bends both the B & G strings. I just got a gig with a country band and I have two questions and I'm hoping to get some practical advice.

1) I have two 1991 ASAT Specials and would like to put the unit on one of them. I know it's an easy install but would the screws/screwholes that are needed to hold the Hipshot in place (by the strap button) devalue the guitar. I ask because both of my ASAT Specials were made during the year that Leo passed.

2) This is for anyone with Bender "know how." The added G-Bender on the hipshot is actually a Palm Lever... I use a thumb pick and fingers so I'm wondering if the "palm bender" would be difficult to use for a finger picker. I also wondering if the added G-Bender/Palm Lever is overkill or maybe redundant?

Thanks in advance,
Ray

[Craig]

Welcome!

Check out this post in The Project Page sub-forum: Hipshot B/G Bender Installation by blargfromouterspace.

Hope this helps.

[blargfromouterspace]

Hi Ray.

I'd recommend those holes either side of the strap pin, without them the unit will not be properly secured and will work itself into all sorts of positions, putting it out of tune. I found the palm lever got in the way of everything, but that's just me, and I like picking right up near the saddles. I've since removed the unit from my guitar as I didn't use it and it got in my way. Yes my guitar has holes in it now. I have no intention of filling them and there is no doubt that it has knocked some of the resale value off of my guitar, but it's not one I plan on selling - ever - and they're there if I ever need to re-install the bender.

So, my advice would be to trial the unit on a cheaper guitar before you drill holes in those '91 ASATs.

[Ray65]

Thanks for the replies, guys. Putting the Hipshot on a cheaper guitar seemed/seems like the thing to do but the ASAT Specials are my main guitars so I was considering putting the bender on one of them. I don't plan on selling them either but I think the cheap guitar idea is a good one.

I've heard of some people actually cutting the palm lever back a bit to get it out of the way of their picking hand and it didn't hurt the functionality of the bender... I guess we'll see.

[NickHorne]

It probably depends on the individual fit on any one guitar, but consider devaluing the bender rather than the guitar as a first line of attack.
The L-shaped main plate of the bender is lined with baize; try slicing off a little (a 3/8" corner) from the two corners of the "tail" section (i.e. nearest the back of the guitar) and cleaning back to the plating with a blade, then fixing a couple of self-adhesive cork discs (the kind you might use for small domestic items to protect furniture from scratches), just slightly thicker than the baize, in these two corners. I haven't tried rubber instead of cork; might work. Anyway, these are to provide more grip than the baize can do.
Next, make sure your tail strap-button screw is a good, sound fit in its hole. If you're confident of gauging the drill size right, and the drilling itself, consider extending the hole a little (not too big a diameter!) and fitting a longer screw. DON'T just ram a longer / bigger screw into the existing hole; a split guitar is definitely devalued!
Also, get hold of a "star" shakeproof washer, to go between the strap button and the bender. Same kind of suppliers as nuts and bolts generally, and possibly also cycle stores (used for some brake calipers). Sort of a metal starfish shape.
The dislocation you're trying to prevent is an upward moment, i.e. away from the face of the guitar, due to the actuating force on the bender. Something fairly non-scratching (hard plastic?) placed in the mounting slot, cut to just fit between the strap screw and the slot end, and secured behind the washer, might also work. Haven't tried this though.
I have a Will Ray, with the two extra screws in. But I still found it moved about a bit. The big screw, star washer and cork dots did it for me, though the two screws are still there too.
Stay calm and patient and you won't have regrets! The Hipshot is basically great, really instinctive after some practise, and I can even work mine very comfortably sitting down with the WR on my left knee.
If your tuning adjuster on the Hipshot won't stay put, try a stack of little rubber O-rings instead of a spring; problem gone.
And get Nut Sauce for bridge and nut slot.
Also, (this is maybe a bit esoteric) I have a small pool ball, with a 9mm hole drilled most of the way through, glued on the end of my actuator arm. Now it gldes over my clothes instead of getting caught in my belt loops.... should be an 8 ball really, I guess (my red 3 looks a bit weird).
Best,
Nick

[blargfromouterspace]

I have a small pool ball, with a 9mm hole drilled most of the way through, glued on the end of my actuator arm. Now it gldes over my clothes instead of getting caught in my belt loops.... should be an 8 ball really, I guess (my red 3 looks a bit weird).

Nick that is a great idea - I'd forgotten about the belt loop snag, it could be very annoying

[NickHorne]

I should add that I overlooked a minor change that I subsequently made to the cork dots idea mentioned in my previous (forgot I did it); I subsequently moved the dots closer together, i.e. nearer the mounting slot. I had originally thought that a wide spacing would give the dots more purchase against off-centre forces, but it turns out that the force is pretty much central, and the dots get better pressure when they're nearer the strap-button axis, as there is less springing/bending of the baseplate (in fact none at all that's visible on mine). It's important that the dots are thin; they will obviously cause strange distortions of the plate if they're thick. The ones I used are sold in the UK as self-adhesive dots on a backing sheet, for use on the bottom of (e.g.) stone or other abrasive ornaments etc to protect furniture. Unfortunately, I haven't got any left to measure one, but they're only around a millimetre thick.
Hope this is useful.

[NickHorne]

And another oversight! This embarrassing... I forgot to mention that if you use the stack of o-rings in place of the spring on the tuning adjuster, it sill needs a metal washer under the head (knob) of the adjuster bolt, between it and the o-rings, otherwise you will get a very unhelpful rubbery action! My o-rings are really pretty small, they grip the thread of the adjuster a little rather than just slide on. I can't remember whether I put any lubricant on the threads or not; I suspect I would have used a tiny smear of Vaseline or similar.
I'm really pleased with how mine works now, I don't have to touch the adjuster from one month to the next. But I'm sure it wasn't always so; I do think the whole Hipshot + its installation kind of beds in, even when we add stabilising bits and pieces to it.
I do remember that once I got over the first thrill of bending adventure, I got frustrated by two things: the discovery that there's a definite maximum of force that should be used with the actuator, else it's possible to go a bit sharp, and setting the adjuster to prevent this only condemns you to using maximum force all the time, which is even more unhelpful; but it's perfectly learnable, and the feel for it comes with practise and learning to connect your ear with the bender, which is good technique anyhow. The other thing was this settling-in that I mention; it's hard to be specific about where this is taking place, but do be assured it goes away. I find my Hipshot really intuitive and great now, trustworthy and stable.
As for the G-bender, I'll just put in my two cents: there's lots to be gained from just the B, not least a great clarifying in your mind as to which degree of a scale / chord is on the B string at any one time and how best to get to where you want to be next. Also, remember that Clarence White used .015 or .016 for the G, and this didn't exactly hurt his tone, so whole-tone bends are sort of all under your left hand already all over the board; I don't find that there's the same double/triple stop string bending issue of collision with neighbouring strings with the G as there is with the B, and I do simultaneous Hipshot B (in either direction) and fingered G bends as a matter of course now, often with something from the E as well (though this is unbent, fairly obviously, else it would collide with the B .........though perhaps there may be some obscure, dangerous, fun Jerry Donahue type potential in here....... )

And using a skinny G string does, uh... help prevent the beggar being so damn loud.

Best,
Nick