Oxidation on Metal Parts -- make it or break the deal?

[krugerj]

I apologize for inundating this forum with posts, so if this is becoming an annoyance or breaks any rules, Craig feel free to remove my posts! I just wish to be sure before making a purchase.

This is my third thread, as I didn't want to cross the streams as per the different topics I needed help with. ALTHOUGH, if this breaks rules, I will continue in my other thread.

That being said, I am wondering if the rust present on the bridge and pickguard screws are too far gone to make this a worthwhile purchase. This Legacy is from the 90s with a 3 bolt neck (as was my question from a previous thread), however upon further inspection I noticed just how rusted some of the metal parts are on the guitar. Does this rust warrant changing the parts, or should it work fine? I ask because the trem posts themself looks rusted all the way down.

Pictures to follow. The rust is most obvious in the second photograph. Pictures 3 and 4 are just for show.

[Elwood]

That doesn't look that bad. I bet you could bring back most the shine with
some flitz metal polish.
Maybe use the oxidation as a bargaining chip?

[krugerj]

That doesn't look that bad. I bet you could bring back most the shine with
some flitz metal polish.
Maybe use the oxidation as a bargaining chip?

I would, except it's from Chicago Music Exchange, they're not the most flexible bunch from my experience... But that's good news, I just didn't really want the bridge posts to snap one day. The rust looks pretty severe.

[krugerj]

Also, whoever put those tuners on had a bit too much to drink the day they installed them

[yowhatsshakin]

Howdy krugerj,

My old bicycle trick would be to take it all apart, clean up the rust with deoxidant, and than put some vaseline on the parts. That's what you would do in the old days in the Netherlands to keep your chromed tire rims in tip-top shape. Bit depending on where you live and the prevalent condition there (salt air, humidity, etc.), but otherwise I wouldn't not worry too much about it. If you feel the DFV is not functioning properly, only then it is time to replace it.

Oh, and welcome to the world of guitar maintenance.

- Jos

BTW, it seems it is one machine that is a little bit installed at an angle. But since this involves a locking pin, this is a little tough to fix. You'd need to fill the old hole (matchstick and some super glue? dowel?) and drill a new hole in the correct location.

[FZTNT]

First off, it's put on backwards. That aside I agree, it doesn't look that bad. Those are hardened steel bolts so I doubt they would "rust through". They might get squeaky or bind a bit but I think what Jos suggest is a good idea. It's a bit of work all around but if you remove the bridge and those screws, take a fine wire brush to them in just the rusted areas, then apply some grease of some sort, reassemble and you should be good to go. I also think you can buy those parts either on line sometimes or from G&L direct.

Good luck though, have fun,

Tom

[yowhatsshakin]

First off, it's put on backwards.

Tom,

Are you talking about the DFV bridge plate? It is a lefty, so it is put on the "right" way. Note the G&L logo being visible. You cannot morph a righty DFV with a single arm socket into a lefty. Flipping the bridge plate would leave you no option to have the saddles at the top.

- Jos

[FZTNT]

Jos, it was a joke, running through previous thread...try to keep up.

Tom

[yowhatsshakin]

Jos, it was a joke, running through previous thread...try to keep up.

Tom

[geoff douglas]

lol, your not alone Jos, i missed the joke too,,,

[FZTNT]

I apologize for my leftist remarks.

I should have used the bbcode [Joke][/Joke]. Then it would have looked like this:

First off, it's put on backwards. Hahahahahaha! Oh, sorry, I used the off color joke code by mistake.

I knew a guy who could shred using a right-handed guitar flipped over and played lefty. It was like a demon. Even when he bought left handed guitars from me, he had them set up and strung right handed.

Tom