tuning stability?

[charleyrich]

I just got a new Comanche with a Will Ray pickup at the bridge and I have figured out how to get a good sound. So, its not the usual Comanche issue...

But, I am having tuning problems. I have stretched my strings out (tried different sets, too). I user a 11-48 set. I also moved the tremolo bar up and down as someone suggested that to me as a way to stretch the strings.

But for some reason, the strings go out of tune almost immediately.

I have a light touch, but I do bend strings. I am not doing any nose-dive tremolo antics. My repair guy lowered the pickups so its probably not magnet pull. The intonation is dead-on.

Some strings go sharp and others flat. I have two other G&L's, both ASATs and love the guitars. But, this is so annoying I already feel like I need to get rid of it and its only two weeks old.

Any suggestions?

Regards,

Charley

[Fumble fingers]

sounds like the strings are sticking in the nut .... might need a tech to loosen up if so

[Craig]

I agree with Fumble fingers, that you should look at the nut string slots as a possible source of this.

I also, suggest that you check that the current setup of your DFV bridge, to make sure that the bridge plate is parallel with the top of the body.
See this post in the G&L Knowledgebase, G&L Technical Questions and Tips sub-forum: Current Factory setup for G&L guitars with vibrato bridges.

You might also peruse the LINK: G&L Technical Questions & Tips (sorted by Subject) for other posts which might help you in resolving this instability
issue.

Hope this helps.

[CSVeteran]

Assuming the strings are new and the bridge is level, you should stretch each string manually. Your next step is to use a piece of fine emery paper 400-1000 grit and fold it so it is circular, then run it trough each nut slut. A light motion is all that is needed. The dual fulcram vibrato and tuners on G&Ls are not its weak point, so stretching the strings and using some fine emery paper to free the nut of any binding, is where you should start.

[charleyrich]

Assuming the strings are new and the bridge is level, you should stretch each string manually. Your next step is to use a piece of fine emery paper 400-1000 grit and fold it so it is circular, then run it trough each nut slut. A light motion is all that is needed. The dual fulcram vibrato and tuners on G&Ls are not its weak point, so stretching the strings and using some fine emery paper to free the nut of any binding, is where you should start.

Thanks for the suggestions. I took it to a Luthier who did exactly what you suggested. However, while the tuning stability is better. It still isn't great. Some strings still go sharp fairly quickly. And sometime they all seem to go out tune. Very disappointed in the instrument. This kind of nonsense takes the pleasure out of playing. I have an ASAT with a Stetsbar tremolo and it stays in tune so much better. The ASAT has a bone nut while the troublesome Comanche has the man-made nut that comes with it. I am not sure if I should replace the nut or just try to get the dealer to take the guitar back as its only 1 month old.

--Charley

[CSVeteran]

Charley - it sounds like a problem with the nut. If the nut slots are incorrectly cut, it will create problems like the ones you describe, irrespective of what material it is made from. I would install a new nut. I would also urge you to try some different strings once the new nut is cut and stretch each one out by hand.

[charleyrich]

Charley - it sounds like a problem with the nut. If the nut slots are incorrectly cut, it will create problems like the ones you describe, irrespective of what material it is made from. I would install a new nut. I would also urge you to try some different strings once the new nut is cut and stretch each one out by hand.

Thanks for the help. I have tried three different string sets from different manufacturers without any difference if stability. Sound was very different, though. I think replacing the nut is the next step. I am going to use bone instead of graphtech. All my other G&L's have bone and they are fine, even the one with a tremolo.

--Charley

[Craig]

Is the bridge plate is parallel with the body and does the trem bar return to the same place after use? Does it float free in both up and down motions?
If not, there is some binding of the bridge going on. Check to make sure the pickguard around the bridge posts
is not interfering. Check to make sure the bridge post bolts have two felt washer on each one. And, check that
the trem springs are not binding against the inside cavity walls.

It would be helpful if you would post some photos of the bridge area and the trem cavity (with the trem cover off).
What is the height of the bottom of bridge plate to the top of the body?

[Fumble fingers]

I also had one guitar that the trem block rubbed the side of the cavity due to the trem not being level side to side on my Comanche , once the trim was leveled the block quit rubbing .... so you might remove the back plate just to make sure nothing is rubbing the trem block causing tuning stability problems

[trem]

Charley - it sounds like a problem with the nut. If the nut slots are incorrectly cut, it will create problems like the ones you describe, irrespective of what material it is made from. I would install a new nut. I would also urge you to try some different strings once the new nut is cut and stretch each one out by hand.

Thanks for the help. I have tried three different string sets from different manufacturers without any difference if stability. Sound was very different, though. I think replacing the nut is the next step. I am going to use bone instead of graphtech. All my other G&L's have bone and they are fine, even the one with a tremolo.

--Charley

Hi, I recently bought a Legacy that had the same problems and tried all the things you tried. I then greased the nut and tree, and it helped, but the low E would still be about 20 cents flat or sharp depending on the direction used.

Reluctantly, (hard to do without getting lube all over), I decided to grease the stud posts in the front (facing the fingerboard). I dived the bar all the way down and put some lube in the crease on both posts and worked it in a bit with the trem. Now I have the float set forward enough to get me to a B note on the G string on a full pull up, and I can Floyd Rose it and it stays in tune as well as any boutique standard trem guitar. Now I love it. Probably worth a try.

[notalk]

Just out of curiosity, what happens if you try 09 strings? If thinner strings don't have any problem, wouldn't that pinpoint the nut grooves?

[charleyrich]

All stability problems resolved with a good visit to the local Luthier. The nut needed some extra care and now the tuning stability is quite good.

Thanks for all the good advice.

Regards,

Charley

[Unwitting Accomplice]

great news. Nothing worse than fighting set-up and tuning issues.

What I have learned in working set-ups is to start with the nut. If that isn't cut right (spacing, height, slot width) then chasing an issue with the truss rod, or saddle adjustments, or bridge work is simply frustrating at best. You can gain improvements, but will be a sum of compromises vs. being an optimal set-up (for you).

As I was reading through I was thinking it was the nut, but not the graph tech material as a cause. I have a graph tech nut on my Legacy and the tuning is as stable as some of my hardtails.