String slippage on high E
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Encinitastubes
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Sat Nov 30, 2013 6:32 am
- Location: Encinitas, CA
String slippage on high E
I've played G&Ls since the '90s and recently bought a recent-model Bluesboy, which has reknewed my interest. However, the newer models have the tuners that involve stickin the end of the string into the hole and then wrapping. It is a good design, but on my Bluesboy, I can't keep the high E string from slipping unless I leave so much slack that it has a ton of windings. Any advice? Thanks!!
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suave eddie
- Posts: 787
- Joined: Fri Feb 26, 2010 3:12 pm
- Location: B.C.
Re: String slippage on high E
There a few good Youtube videos showing exactly how to use these types of tuners. There are a couple of techniques to wrap the string over itself, but the the thing I find most critical is that you have to keep tension on the string as you wind it. If you do that I think you will find the slippage issue on the high E string will not be a problem. I personally love these types of tuners and in over 25 years of using them I think I've only experienced the string slippage a couple of times. You shouldn't need more than two inches of slack -- and then after you insert the string into the post give it a good 90 degree bend before you start winding -- but as I said, keep a good bit of tension on the string as you wind.
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Boogie Bill
- Posts: 793
- Joined: Tue Mar 02, 2010 1:16 pm
- Location: Portland, Oregon
Re: String slippage on high E
I've had this problem on a few of my USA G&L Legacys with the Schaller Tuners, though I don't recall ever having the problem with any of my vintage Fenders. I typically use 9-42 Fender Super Bullets on my G&L guitars with the DF Vibrato.
Measure the length of the string; then cut; then wind. I mark the string about 3/4 to 1" past the tuner slot. Then I pull it back to the mark and make a SHARP bend (90 degrees or more) in the string. Then I cut the string with my side-cutter, about 5/8" past the bend. The bent piece is inserted into the top of the post and wound down the post, always keeping downward pressure on the string. When the string comes up out of the post, the string should actually lock itself on the shoulder of the upper part of the post. Properly wound, strings on these tuners will rarely slip.
Occasionally I have problems with the High E string on one of my Legacys. What I have learned to do is to take a mini-pliers, and put a second small bend in the part of the string that is inserted into the tuner. You can do this by making a small v bend at the bottom of the string, but often all I need is just a small-angle bend in the middle of the string inserted into the tuner. Try this and see if it helps.
You can also replace your tuners with locking tuners, if you desire. I have both locking and non-locking Schaller and Sperzel tuners and I don't have a strong preference. The true advantage of the locking style is in the speed that you can do string changes; a properly wound string SHOULD be stable, unless you are using HEAVY AND DEEP vibrato bends. I would strongly suggest that if you decide to go with locking tuners, you replace Schallers with Schallers, and Sperzels with Sperzels. The locking tuners are heavier and you may notice differences in tone and sustain.
Good luck!
Measure the length of the string; then cut; then wind. I mark the string about 3/4 to 1" past the tuner slot. Then I pull it back to the mark and make a SHARP bend (90 degrees or more) in the string. Then I cut the string with my side-cutter, about 5/8" past the bend. The bent piece is inserted into the top of the post and wound down the post, always keeping downward pressure on the string. When the string comes up out of the post, the string should actually lock itself on the shoulder of the upper part of the post. Properly wound, strings on these tuners will rarely slip.
Occasionally I have problems with the High E string on one of my Legacys. What I have learned to do is to take a mini-pliers, and put a second small bend in the part of the string that is inserted into the tuner. You can do this by making a small v bend at the bottom of the string, but often all I need is just a small-angle bend in the middle of the string inserted into the tuner. Try this and see if it helps.
You can also replace your tuners with locking tuners, if you desire. I have both locking and non-locking Schaller and Sperzel tuners and I don't have a strong preference. The true advantage of the locking style is in the speed that you can do string changes; a properly wound string SHOULD be stable, unless you are using HEAVY AND DEEP vibrato bends. I would strongly suggest that if you decide to go with locking tuners, you replace Schallers with Schallers, and Sperzels with Sperzels. The locking tuners are heavier and you may notice differences in tone and sustain.
Good luck!