Explain trussrods

[oldhatt]

Actually, I'm going to give you my understanding and ask you to correct or embellish, as need be.

The story: I'm trying to straighten the neck on my Tele and it's taking more adjustment than I expected. I'm using the 1/4 turn + time rule and decided I better look up EXACTLY what I'm doing ..... there's a lot of info out there, it's almost an adventure finding what you want -lol

A truss rod is actually 2 pieces of FLAT steel, seated in a channel that allows a limited amount of movement. The adjustment I make causes one of these pieces to bow, in the direction of my choice and the second piece "comes along for the ride" , ( as it was just stated to me ).
It seems this rod is designed to go just beyond a "reasonable" range before it maxes out and I can make no more adjustments in that direction. There is never a case of reaching " full circle" and ending up where you started.

Is all that true ? ... is there nothing too be feared from playing with your truss rod ?

Thanks,
Mike

[Elwood]

There's several popular designs.
Some thoughts...
Sometimes adding a spacer(washer) below the nut can give you a little more throw if it's maxed out.
You can split the fingerboard by going too far, if that's the weak point; a split just behind the first fret
is the thing you don't want to see.
A heat bend treatment for the neck can sometimes bring things back in the ball park if the truss rod isn't doing it.

Here's a nice pictorial of the dual acting truss rod many use:
http://www.bassesbyleo.com/forum/viewto ... f=4&t=1674

[andy_tchp]

A picture tells a thousand words so they say. This is how most (single action type) work, only acting against the string tension in a concave channel:


What you're describing is a type of dual-action truss rod, which is able to positively change the neck bow. They have a pair of threaded rods that work in tandem.


Here's a dual-action rod:
http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Su ... s_Rod.html

And here's the single-action style:
http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Su ... d_Kit.html

It's true there's nothing to be 'feared', but you should be careful. If the adjuster won't turn easily to get to the desired adjustment do not force it.


This Warmoth page is the source of those images, and gives a more detailed explanation:
http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Necks/TrussRods.aspx

[y2kc]

My friend ( we grew up together here on the north side and he did my repairs) Ed Reynolds has a good video on YouTube explaining truss rod adjustment. He now lives in Austin and works for Eric Johnson, Chris Duarte and countless others and is Austins premier guitar tech. He could not stand the Fender guitars I played back then but did enjoy my Gibson SG Jr. He made it sing and I still have it to this day.

We also shared lawyers and the three of us played often. He was a way better player than me and always played his custom guitars. He made everything on them right down to the switches. Way to much talent.

He makes adjusting the truss rod simple and something you should not shy away from. He taught me that the truss rod is one key to making subtle adjustments and tailoring your guitar to your playing.

We miss him here but are very happy he has made his mark.

Y2kc

[sam]

Casey, thanks for the link to Ed Reynolds video. Just watched it so here it is for easy access.

truss rod
[video]https://youtu.be/uCoULXqdKFg[/video]

neck adjustment
[video]https://youtu.be/Xz7TfvKo3go[/video]

[y2kc]

Sam,

Thanks. Ed is serious dude. Besides making great guitars he has a great understanding of many things. He is just a smart dude. He reminds me of our G&L friend Gabe.

take care,

y2kc

[Kit]

In the second video he shows how to adjust the neck for more bow when a string buzzes. I would modify that by saying only adjust the neck now if most of the strings buzz. If only one string is buzzing I'd adjust the saddle height for that string first to try as a fix. And don't forget every time you tweak the neck or saddle height the intonation may have to be checked again.

[y2kc]

Kit,

I agree with that. It is a balance.

Are you still playing that 3rd gen. sc-3? That is a great guitar.

Still playing with those folks?

y2kc

[sam]

Hi Kit,

I agree about saddle adjustment before truss rod tweaks.

[y2kc]

If one string is buzzing then the saddle possibly needs adjusting. It could also be the nut. After that, the truss rod is the first thing to adjust to combat natural environmental changes in the wood.

I don't know wher you guys live but the climate changes here effect how my set neck guitars play as well as my G&l's.

Y2kc