hello guys, i recently bought a used ASAT special and i have a problem with the bridge, the thing containing the 1 E string is a little off. and it makes the first string
be near the edge of the neck. i took this photos so you can see the problem. i have no idea what to do, what screw do i need to adjust. im lost please help me =)
http://i.imgur.com/i6ETpzh.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/u6uxzZb.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/L9dG9NZ.jpg
Asat special saddle lock bridge problem
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Re: Asat special saddle lock bridge problem
also looks like the saddle lock screw is not tight/or missing on top of what Elwood says , a tight screw will shove it up next to the other saddle after you level them better ..... somebody didn't do a nice job of setting it up or adjusted it the wrong way .... tweak away and let us know how it goes
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Re: Asat special saddle lock bridge problem
thanks guys, do i need a allen wrench or something special, and what do you mean by the saddle locking set screw, is it located on the top?
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Re: Asat special saddle lock bridge problem
See: G&L Saddle-Lock bridge and Can you tell me which allen wrenches I need for my G&L?.sylar0123456 wrote:thanks guys, do i need a allen wrench or something special, and what do you mean by the saddle locking set screw, is it located on the top?
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Re: Asat special saddle lock bridge problem
I have had this happen on one of my guitars while setting it up and this may be the very same thing.
If you try to follow the radius of the neck at the saddles by having one of the two saddle hight adjustment screws lower than the other, especially the high E, it creates a physics problem when you tighten the saddle locking screw. It the two screws are not level, it forces the closer adjustment screw down and the second one up to try to force even pressure downward on the saddle.
The first time I encountered this I was horrified because of all the great things I had heard about this bridge. Upon close inspection I discovered this was the case and as soon as I made the hight adjustment screws even. the saddles locked up tight and level with each other.
Try this and see what happens. If you want to attempt to match the radius the only thing you can do is start with each saddle level to the bridge (perpendicular really) and follow the curve of the neck radius one string at a time. You can do a little bit of tweaking on the inner string saddles to smooth out the curve but from a setup perspective it's not necessary. More esoteric than any real science.
Also, the saddle locking screw is located on the high E side of the bridge. It's a recessed allen wrench screw that literally pushes the saddles together and locks then together as if a single piece of metal. You should never make and saddle adjustments or intonation adjustments without making sure this screw is a bit loose so the saddles can move freely. When you are finished making adjustments, the screw should just be snugged up to the first saddle, no need to crank it down to gorilla grip levels. A slight bit more than hand tight normally works for me but I am not a thrasher. If you are a heavy trasher type of player than a bit more tight is ok but please don't go overboard, it's a delicate system. I have recently been told that there is a plastic bushing in there but have not taken one apart to that extent.
Hope this helps explain at least what it looks like to me, either way, it's good knowledge to have when setting up this bridge.
Tom
If you try to follow the radius of the neck at the saddles by having one of the two saddle hight adjustment screws lower than the other, especially the high E, it creates a physics problem when you tighten the saddle locking screw. It the two screws are not level, it forces the closer adjustment screw down and the second one up to try to force even pressure downward on the saddle.
The first time I encountered this I was horrified because of all the great things I had heard about this bridge. Upon close inspection I discovered this was the case and as soon as I made the hight adjustment screws even. the saddles locked up tight and level with each other.
Try this and see what happens. If you want to attempt to match the radius the only thing you can do is start with each saddle level to the bridge (perpendicular really) and follow the curve of the neck radius one string at a time. You can do a little bit of tweaking on the inner string saddles to smooth out the curve but from a setup perspective it's not necessary. More esoteric than any real science.
Also, the saddle locking screw is located on the high E side of the bridge. It's a recessed allen wrench screw that literally pushes the saddles together and locks then together as if a single piece of metal. You should never make and saddle adjustments or intonation adjustments without making sure this screw is a bit loose so the saddles can move freely. When you are finished making adjustments, the screw should just be snugged up to the first saddle, no need to crank it down to gorilla grip levels. A slight bit more than hand tight normally works for me but I am not a thrasher. If you are a heavy trasher type of player than a bit more tight is ok but please don't go overboard, it's a delicate system. I have recently been told that there is a plastic bushing in there but have not taken one apart to that extent.
Hope this helps explain at least what it looks like to me, either way, it's good knowledge to have when setting up this bridge.
Tom