Let me know what you're thinking

Because the only G&L that comes in the all mahogany option is Ascari GT with P90's. It still doesn't come with the Saddle Lock bridge. I guess I could order a Comanche in all mahogany, but that certainly wouldn't cost a bit over $200 like that AXL guitar. And also that AXL has a satin vey worn finish while Ascari comes in a gloss finish.helle-man wrote:Sounds like a lot of work to me. Isn't it easier to just buy a G&L guitar?
WR
Even if you end up with the sound you want, you're probably looking at $300 or more in parts. That's assuming you have all the tools you need, including a plunge router and whatever you'll need to build a routing template. Add that to the cost of the guitar, and you're getting close to some of the deals you can find on older G&Ls.Tomas83 wrote:Since I've been G&L-enified a lot I had this idea. Get the guitar, get rid of the bridge and install the G&L saddle lock bridge, change the pickups to Z coils (possibly get the zinc 3 set from the web store) and change the circuit to a PTB (possibly the 3 way switch to the 5 way with super seven switching). The AXL should be coming with SD Seth Lover's and Tone Pro's tune-o-matic. I don't care about the resale value or weird esthetic of it. Just the sound that's all that matters.
Not without pulling the frets and dot markers, filling the slots, cutting new slots at the correct scale, and refretting. I doubt there's any way to pull that off without the old fret slots and markers being very obvious. You would also have to contend with filling and refinishing any mounting holes from the old bridge that aren't covered by the Saddlelock.Tomas83 wrote:Also I'd like to extend the scale length so I was wondering if I could push the bridge back to where the holes for the stop tail piece are drilled.
Hunt for a pre-1985 G&L. Mahogany bodies were common on the F-100 and S-500. They are both excellent guitars, especially with the 'hog bodies. By the time you add replacement parts and tooling to the $200 AXL, you're not far from the going price for an F-100 or an early S-500.Tomas83 wrote:Because the only G&L that comes in the all mahogany option is Ascari GT with P90's. It still doesn't come with the Saddle Lock bridge. I guess I could order a Comanche in all mahogany, but that certainly wouldn't cost a bit over $200 like that AXL guitar.
Thanks Sam, I like your Agile I think I would go that way with it too. I'll probably ask for help some experienced luthier with the bridge, pickups swap and the circuitry change. I just want to have the guitar sound I have in my hand.sam wrote:Hey Tomas83,
Not a weird idea at all, actually is doable, BUT.... adding a saddle lock bridge is easier said than done. The Z-Coils just require a little routing and electronics is electronics. I will mod anything with six strings for sure, below is an Agile tele I added a big neck MFD and a Will Ray Z coil. May one day add a saddle lock, but the routing is my hesitation.
Or do as Will Ray did (psst where I stole the idea)
Personally I say go for it if you can get the bridge set properly and don't mind the work. If you are unfamiliar with the saddle lock, it does not just screw into the top of the body, it has a protrusion that sets into the body. You need distance from the nut and angle to be correct. But give it a try.
KenC wrote:I'm not familiar with that brand or model, but my first inclination is to let the AXL be an AXL. If you want a project, it wouldn't take long to find an older G&L that needs to have some bad modification undone.
Even if you end up with the sound you want, you're probably looking at $300 or more in parts. That's assuming you have all the tools you need, including a plunge router and whatever you'll need to build a routing template. Add that to the cost of the guitar, and you're getting close to some of the deals you can find on older G&Ls.Tomas83 wrote:Since I've been G&L-enified a lot I had this idea. Get the guitar, get rid of the bridge and install the G&L saddle lock bridge, change the pickups to Z coils (possibly get the zinc 3 set from the web store) and change the circuit to a PTB (possibly the 3 way switch to the 5 way with super seven switching). The AXL should be coming with SD Seth Lover's and Tone Pro's tune-o-matic. I don't care about the resale value or weird esthetic of it. Just the sound that's all that matters.
Not without pulling the frets and dot markers, filling the slots, cutting new slots at the correct scale, and refretting. I doubt there's any way to pull that off without the old fret slots and markers being very obvious. You would also have to contend with filling and refinishing any mounting holes from the old bridge that aren't covered by the Saddlelock.Tomas83 wrote:Also I'd like to extend the scale length so I was wondering if I could push the bridge back to where the holes for the stop tail piece are drilled.
Hunt for a pre-1985 G&L. Mahogany bodies were common on the F-100 and S-500. They are both excellent guitars, especially with the 'hog bodies. By the time you add replacement parts and tooling to the $200 AXL, you're not far from the going price for an F-100 or an early S-500.Tomas83 wrote:Because the only G&L that comes in the all mahogany option is Ascari GT with P90's. It still doesn't come with the Saddle Lock bridge. I guess I could order a Comanche in all mahogany, but that certainly wouldn't cost a bit over $200 like that AXL guitar.
Ken
KenC wrote:I wasn't aware that G&L built something with a mahogany neck. Historically, everything they built had a hard maple bolt-on neck. The construction (skunk stripe, then bi-cut, and now whatever the new kind is) and attachment method (three-bolt, then four bolt) changed, but it had always been maple...even on the LP-inspired G-200.
If the AXL has an arched top, it would be a very major effort to install a Saddlelock. The only way I could see doing it would be routing a mortise the exact dimension of the bridge, and then cutting a base to fit into the mortise to give you a flat mounting surface. It's not impossible, but it would require some very precise woodworking. There would probably be a bit of finish touch-up needed after that too.
I'm not trying to dissuade you from the project. I'm just trying to answer your original question about whether it would require serious money...
Ken
Thanks Elwood. What is relatively cheap? And no I'm not aware of the 25th anniversary ASAT's. Btw. I was debating for a while a SG, but I still want G&L pickups and a better bridge.Elwood wrote:My '65 melodymaker (all mahogany) vibrates like not much else, those things are still relatively cheap if you get a chance to
play one.
Your aware of the 25th anniv. ASAT ? (though they never come cheap)
Oh and I forgot the AXL has a carved top. If the Saddle Lock would be too much I think that I could live with something else too. Question is what. Well, the least would be getting the string through body like a Tele (some Carvins and Ibanez have that too). There's also another option that seemed good to me. Hipshot Grand Baby bridge that should provide more contact with the body and resonance.KenC wrote: If the AXL has an arched top, it would be a very major effort to install a Saddlelock. The only way I could see doing it would be routing a mortise the exact dimension of the bridge, and then cutting a base to fit into the mortise to give you a flat mounting surface. It's not impossible, but it would require some very precise woodworking. There would probably be a bit of finish touch-up needed after that too.
Ken
Elwood wrote:I still see them for around 600*,maybe less since most have been through the ringer... just watch for repaired headstocks.
I put an 80's gibson sonex humbucker at the bridge position (already was routed).Very happy with its sound and feel.
It likes string sets with a heavy bottom. I'm liking the idea of a saddlelock on one.
I lent that guitar to my brother. Honestly, I don't think I'll get it back.
edit* like this one
Take a look at an ASAT Classic if you get a chance. They are string-through, and have a very substantial block that the strings feed in through. It fits into a mortise routed in the back. It is much nicer than the individual ferrules I've seen for the strings on other guitars.Tomas83 wrote:Well, the least would be getting the string through body like a Tele (some Carvins and Ibanez have that too).
KenC wrote:Take a look at an ASAT Classic if you get a chance. They are string-through, and have a very substantial block that the strings feed in through. It fits into a mortise routed in the back. It is much nicer than the individual ferrules I've seen for the strings on other guitars.Tomas83 wrote:Well, the least would be getting the string through body like a Tele (some Carvins and Ibanez have that too).
I almost took a picture of the one on my 1990 ASAT Classic Sig when it popped out during a string change. Wishing now that I had...
Ken
It's not because I think, I know. I really tried almost every major guitar maker on the market. Like I mentioned when I tune into my tuning (CGDGBD) the guitar does sound different. If you have some time tune it that way, play it for a bit and than tune it back to regular E-E and you'll see what in talking about. To my ears that tuning sounds best in all mahogany guitars, electric or acoustic.bloodied_fingers wrote:All this because you think an all-mahogany guitar will sound so much different than <any other wood> with the same electronics?
G&L has made several Limited Edition/Special Build US built models with Mahogany body and neck over the years:KenC wrote:I wasn't aware that G&L built something with a mahogany neck. Historically, everything they built had a hard maple bolt-on neck. The construction (skunk stripe, then bi-cut, and now whatever the new kind is) and attachment method (three-bolt, then four bolt) changed, but it had always been maple...even on the LP-inspired G-200.
If the AXL has an arched top, it would be a very major effort to install a Saddlelock. The only way I could see doing it would be routing a mortise the exact dimension of the bridge, and then cutting a base to fit into the mortise to give you a flat mounting surface. It's not impossible, but it would require some very precise woodworking. There would probably be a bit of finish touch-up needed after that too.
I'm not trying to dissuade you from the project. I'm just trying to answer your original question about whether it would require serious money...
Ken
Craig wrote:
G&L has made several Limited Edition/Special Build US built models with Mahogany body and neck over the years:
ASAT Junior, ASAT HB, Legacy Special Mahogany Special Build, Comanche Mahogany Special Build, S-500 Mahogany Special Build,
ASAT Classic "Blues Boy" Special Build, G&L 25th Anniversary, Legacy HB Mahogany Special Build. (see Production List of G&L Instruments (USA).
I also had a custom built ASAT Special Semi-Hollow with Mahogany body and neck buit by the factory in 2004. See: Craig's Mahogany ASAT.
There are currently three Tribute Series models which have Mahogany body and neck: the Ascari GTS, the Ascari GT-90 and the Fiorano GTS.Tomas83 wrote:Because the only G&L that comes in the all mahogany option is Ascari GT with P90's. It still doesn't come with the Saddle Lock bridge. I guess I could order a Comanche in all mahogany, but that certainly wouldn't cost a bit over $200 like that AXL guitar. And also that AXL has a satin vey worn finish while Ascari comes in a gloss finish.helle-man wrote:Sounds like a lot of work to me. Isn't it easier to just buy a G&L guitar?
WR
Craig wrote: There are currently three Tribute Series models which have Mahogany body and neck: the Ascari GTS, the Ascari GT-90 and the Fiorano GTS.
Yes, both Ascari GTS and Fiorano GTS do have a veneer Maple cap over the Mahogany body.Tomas83 wrote:Craig wrote: There are currently three Tribute Series models which have Mahogany body and neck: the Ascari GTS, the Ascari GT-90 and the Fiorano GTS.
Craig, I thought the Ascari and the Fiorano GTS both have maple top (cap) on the body. That's why I mentioned the Ascari GT-90 only. I played Fiorano and it's a great guitar. It still comes with a tune-o-matic bridge though and I wasn't a fan on the thick black finish on the back of the neck and body so that would have to go for me and the pickups were too hot for me even on a split coil mode. Given the price of the Fiorano it would be much pricier project. I loved the scale and the headstock on it and the overall craftsmanship though.
KenC wrote:
Not without pulling the frets and dot markers, filling the slots, cutting new slots at the correct scale, and refretting. I doubt there's any way to pull that off without the old fret slots and markers being very obvious. You would also have to contend with filling and refinishing any mounting holes from the old bridge that aren't covered by the Saddlelock.
Ken
How about having an all Mahogany guitar with 25.5" built to your specs:Tomas83 wrote:So I've been to a nice little shop here and they are selling a really great AXL Badwater 1216 for a extremely low price. I really like the guitar in general. Since I've been G&L-enified a lot I had this idea. Get the guitar, get rid of the bridge and install the G&L saddle lock bridge, change the pickups to Z coils (possibly get the zinc 3 set from the web store) and change the circuit to a PTB (possibly the 3 way switch to the 5 way with super seven switching). The AXL should be coming with SD Seth Lover's and Tone Pro's tune-o-matic. I don't care about the resale value or weird esthetic of it. Just the sound that's all that matters. Also I'd like to extend the scale length so I was wondering if I could push the bridge back to where the holes for the stop tail piece are drilled. Is all this doable without dropping serious money into the project or am I crazy? (The pickups sound actually very good, but of course not even close to the MFD's)
Let me know what you're thinking
The type of wood used in solid body electric guitars makes so difference, irrespective of tuning.Tomas83 wrote:It's not because I think, I know. I really tried almost every major guitar maker on the market. Like I mentioned when I tune into my tuning (CGDGBD) the guitar does sound different. If you have some time tune it that way, play it for a bit and than tune it back to regular E-E and you'll see what in talking about. To my ears that tuning sounds best in all mahogany guitars, electric or acoustic.bloodied_fingers wrote:All this because you think an all-mahogany guitar will sound so much different than <any other wood> with the same electronics?
Elwood wrote:This ASAT looks like it's has a 'hog neck, and a really nice top.
I'd love to see that figuring every time I glance down while playing.
ebay
Yes, that's exactly right. I just happen to love the sound of mahogany irrespective of tuning or pickups.bloodied_fingers wrote: The type of wood used in solid body electric guitars makes so difference, irrespective of tuning.
The ASAT Jr. had a mahogany neck, but that's all I can think of and it didn't have a saddle-lock bridge. You are right that mounting a flat-bottomed bridge to a Les Paul top is a fool's errand.KenC wrote:I wasn't aware that G&L built something with a mahogany neck. Historically, everything they built had a hard maple bolt-on neck. The construction (skunk stripe, then bi-cut, and now whatever the new kind is) and attachment method (three-bolt, then four bolt) changed, but it had always been maple...even on the LP-inspired G-200.
If the AXL has an arched top, it would be a very major effort to install a Saddlelock. The only way I could see doing it would be routing a mortise the exact dimension of the bridge, and then cutting a base to fit into the mortise to give you a flat mounting surface. It's not impossible, but it would require some very precise woodworking. There would probably be a bit of finish touch-up needed after that too.
I'm not trying to dissuade you from the project. I'm just trying to answer your original question about whether it would require serious money...
Ken
kakerlak wrote:The ASAT Jr. had a mahogany neck, but that's all I can think of and it didn't have a saddle-lock bridge. You are right that mounting a flat-bottomed bridge to a Les Paul top is a fool's errand.KenC wrote:I wasn't aware that G&L built something with a mahogany neck. Historically, everything they built had a hard maple bolt-on neck. The construction (skunk stripe, then bi-cut, and now whatever the new kind is) and attachment method (three-bolt, then four bolt) changed, but it had always been maple...even on the LP-inspired G-200.
If the AXL has an arched top, it would be a very major effort to install a Saddlelock. The only way I could see doing it would be routing a mortise the exact dimension of the bridge, and then cutting a base to fit into the mortise to give you a flat mounting surface. It's not impossible, but it would require some very precise woodworking. There would probably be a bit of finish touch-up needed after that too.
I'm not trying to dissuade you from the project. I'm just trying to answer your original question about whether it would require serious money...
Ken
You must be referring to the Tribute Series ASAT Junior II. The ASAT Junior did in fact, have both a Mahogany body and neck. See this post in our G&L Knowledgebase: List of Special Edition & Non-Production ASAT-style guitars.Tomas83 wrote:kakerlak wrote:The ASAT Jr. had a mahogany neck, but that's all I can think of and it didn't have a saddle-lock bridge. You are right that mounting a flat-bottomed bridge to a Les Paul top is a fool's errand.KenC wrote:I wasn't aware that G&L built something with a mahogany neck. Historically, everything they built had a hard maple bolt-on neck. The construction (skunk stripe, then bi-cut, and now whatever the new kind is) and attachment method (three-bolt, then four bolt) changed, but it had always been maple...even on the LP-inspired G-200.
If the AXL has an arched top, it would be a very major effort to install a Saddlelock. The only way I could see doing it would be routing a mortise the exact dimension of the bridge, and then cutting a base to fit into the mortise to give you a flat mounting surface. It's not impossible, but it would require some very precise woodworking. There would probably be a bit of finish touch-up needed after that too.
I'm not trying to dissuade you from the project. I'm just trying to answer your original question about whether it would require serious money...
Ken
I thought the Jr. has a maple neck, even the website says so... yeah, I changed my mind about that project. I found even better deal, that would require only minor adjustments. A Epiphone Les Paul Special I P90. I will add a third pickup and a five selector switch with a toggle, for all seven position like the S 500 or Comanche and a PTB circuit instead of the tone and volume configuration. The wraparound bridge (this one is adjustable) seems like a much better specimen to my ears than a TOM bridge and if I'll decide to change it to a Saddle Lock bridge, it will be much easier.
I made a typo. Should have read:Tomas83 wrote:Yes, that's exactly right. I just happen to love the sound of mahogany irrespective of tuning or pickups.bloodied_fingers wrote: The type of wood used in solid body electric guitars makes so difference, irrespective of tuning.