I own an older G&L F100 series I tobacco sunburst guitar that I bought when I was a teenager. I've just recently got back into guitars again and am having fun re-learning the guitar. I was a bit of a hack guitarist as a teenager since I was pretty negligent when it came to practicing and relied way too much on effects pedals. Happy to say that I actually enjoy practicing now and the results are encouraging. It's pretty rewarding.
I'm a bit of a woodworker too and I'd like to re-clear coat my guitar but I'm not sure what finish Leo used on these first F100s. The body is stamped SEP 01 1980. Were they all nitro on those earliest models?
I own an older G&L F100 series I tobacco sunburst guitar that I bought when I was a teenager. I've just recently got back into guitars again and am having fun re-learning the guitar. I was a bit of a hack guitarist as a teenager since I was pretty negligent when it came to practicing and relied way too much on effects pedals. Happy to say that I actually enjoy practicing now and the results are encouraging. It's pretty rewarding.
I'm a bit of a woodworker too and I'd like to re-clear coat my guitar but I'm not sure what finish Leo used on these first F100s. The body is stamped SEP 01 1980. Were they all nitro on those earliest models?
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Please check out this post: Welcome! Read This First, as it will help you navigate our site
and provides tutorials for posting photos, audio and video clips. This way you can show us photos of your F-100.
iamz wrote:I own an older G&L F100 series I tobacco sunburst guitar that I bought when I was a teenager.
Welcome to GbL!
iamz wrote:I'm a bit of a woodworker too and I'd like to re-clear coat my guitar but I'm not sure what finish Leo used on these first F100s.
I'd think twice before doing that! No matter how good it looks to you afterwards, you'll destroy much of the guitar's value. Most G&L fans don't consider the weather checking those early finishes developed as a flaw.
iamz wrote:The body is stamped SEP 01 1980.
Wow, that's an early one. I'd love to see some pics!
That link you provided by Fred is just what I was looking for Craig. Thanks!
Ken, oddly the finish doesn't have any of the checking I've seen on others from the same era. Might be because the guitar has been kept in it's case in a conditioned environment for most of it's life. Unfortunately it does have some major dings on the edges that completely chipped down to the bare mahogany. It also has a lot of Levis copper rivet rash on the back - that actually doesn't bother me much though.
The plan is to fill in the chips with tinted clear until level and just clear, polish and buff in those immediate spots and see how it looks. Might just leave it at that.
iamz,
I just noticed this post and I agree with Ken as far as any refinishing goes. Touching up the edges should not diminish the value much as long as it is done right. There are three colors involved in that finish. The yellow and mahogany toner are very hard to touch up but the brown around the perimeter can be blended with good results if you can use an airbrush or detail gun. Make sure you remove all traces of polish before you start or you will have a halo effect around the spot you work on. Brushing on color might look better than bare wood, but it will be noticeable.
Fred
Thanks Fred. Yeah, I'll be using a brush and while it won't be perfect, it's looking pretty good so far. I've got a few cans of different colored tinted clear I'm using and it's blending in pretty good. Then I'll finish up with enough clear over those spots so I can wet sand and polish it out. Luckily the dark brown on the edges of the guitar is essentially opaque which will help mask my, not so perfect, work.
iamz,
As long as you are careful it should come out fine. Remember that the lacquer in a puff can has very low solids so you have to spray on several coats before you sand and buff or you will buff through the color.
Fred
