My Asat classic has developed a buzz.

[Lazer]

The high E-string buzz open, and fretted all the way up to ~7th fret.
I am pretty sure it's not fret buzz, I beleive it comes from the bridge.
I have read somewhere that tele style 6 saddle bridges are prone
to buzz. Is there any truth in that? Any ideas what I could check.

Cheers
L-zr

[killerburst]

Truss rod too tight? Lefty loosey, Lazer.

[Craig]

The high E-string buzz open, and fretted all the way up to ~7th fret.
I am pretty sure it's not fret buzz, I beleive it comes from the bridge.
I have read somewhere that tele style 6 saddle bridges are prone
to buzz. Is there any truth in that? Any ideas what I could check.

Cheers
L-zr

Make sure that the two intonation screws in the saddle are making positive
contact with the bridge plate.

[Lazer]

Truss rod too tight? Lefty loosey, Lazer.

I don't think it's fretbuzz, but I will check again


Thanks
Cheers
L-zr

[Lazer]

The high E-string buzz open, and fretted all the way up to ~7th fret.
I am pretty sure it's not fret buzz, I beleive it comes from the bridge.
I have read somewhere that tele style 6 saddle bridges are prone
to buzz. Is there any truth in that? Any ideas what I could check.

Cheers
L-zr

Make sure that the two intonation screws in the saddle are making positive
contact with the bridge plate.

This I haven't checked yet,

Thanks
Cheers
L-zr

[darwinohm]

Our lead player had the same thing happen 2 weeks ago on his Legacy and was very simple to fix as it was a buzz coming from the saddle. I find the saddle plane to the bridge can cause this. Some people when adjusting the radius will the plane of the saddle to the bridge plate like the angle of the radius. I have found that this can contribute to buzzing as the lower edge of the saddle will buzz against the adjacent saddle. I adjust the saddles the same plane as the bridge plate (parallel to the bridge plate). This has worked every time I have experienced this problem. I have also experienced this on Fenders. The Saddle lock bridge prevents this from happening.

There is an easy way to determine if this is your problem. Simply lay the guitar on a towel and pinch the saddles tightly together with your fingers and check the string for buzz. If is disappears then you can solve with the adjustment described above.-- Darwin

[Craig]

Also, check out this post: Saddles problem with Asat classic.

Hope you can find the problem and solution.

[Lazer]

Our lead player had the same thing happen 2 weeks ago on his Legacy and was very simple to fix as it was a buzz coming from the saddle. I find the saddle plane to the bridge can cause this. Some people when adjusting the radius will the plane of the saddle to the bridge plate like the angle of the radius. I have found that this can contribute to buzzing as the lower edge of the saddle will buzz against the adjacent saddle. I adjust the saddles the same plane as the bridge plate (parallel to the bridge plate). This has worked every time I have experienced this problem. I have also experienced this on Fenders. The Saddle lock bridge prevents this from happening.

There is an easy way to determine if this is your problem. Simply lay the guitar on a towel and pinch the saddles tightly together with your fingers and check the string for buzz. If is disappears then you can solve with the adjustment described above.-- Darwin

Interesting, now if I understand You correctly. Adjusting You're bridge saddles to smoothly follow the neck radius is a bad idea.
The best way do it is to have both legs the same length so that the saddle is level with the bridge. I beleive I do it the "smooth" way.

Thanks
Cheers
L-zr

[louis cyfer]

Our lead player had the same thing happen 2 weeks ago on his Legacy and was very simple to fix as it was a buzz coming from the saddle. I find the saddle plane to the bridge can cause this. Some people when adjusting the radius will the plane of the saddle to the bridge plate like the angle of the radius. I have found that this can contribute to buzzing as the lower edge of the saddle will buzz against the adjacent saddle. I adjust the saddles the same plane as the bridge plate (parallel to the bridge plate). This has worked every time I have experienced this problem. I have also experienced this on Fenders. The Saddle lock bridge prevents this from happening.

There is an easy way to determine if this is your problem. Simply lay the guitar on a towel and pinch the saddles tightly together with your fingers and check the string for buzz. If is disappears then you can solve with the adjustment described above.-- Darwin

actually adjusting the saddles at an angle like that to follow the radius can also make the adjustment screws rattle, as the pressure is not the same on the 2 of them. i can not figure out why someone would do that. the the screws are meant to go straight, and each saddle to be level.

[Lazer]

Thanks guys, problem fixed, almost...
First off I tested the sadle screws with a wrench, some of tme turned with no resistance at all...
Then I adjusted all of then accordng to Darwins advice, and no more buzz on the open string,
but still a little bit of buzz a few frets up. I then measured the neck with a long straightedge,
very little relief, so I figured killerburst had a point too. I didn't want to mess with the truss rod
because soon comes the dry season and it will develop a bit more relief anyway. Instead I "upped"
the action a little bit. This took away most of it. It still buzzed a teeny weenie bit on frets 1-3,
but this not noticable through a cranked amp. This is an old guitar and I think I need a fret job
to get it perfekt. Now it is absolutely usable.

Thanks guys.

Cheers
L-zr

[blargfromouterspace]

actually adjusting the saddles at an angle like that to follow the radius can also make the adjustment screws rattle, as the pressure is not the same on the 2 of them. i can not figure out why someone would do that. the the screws are meant to go straight, and each saddle to be level.

You can use the two screws for minute adjustments of the string position - for example, if your high E is too close to the edge of the fretboard, lowering the inside screw will put it a bit further from the edge. And before you say so, its nothing to do with poor technique.

[johnnyqb]

Make sure that the two intonation screws in the saddle are making positive
contact with the bridge plate.

you mean the saddle height screws, right? And am I correct that those have nothing to do with intonation?

[Craig]

Make sure that the two intonation screws in the saddle are making positive
contact with the bridge plate.

you mean the saddle height screws, right? And am I correct that those have nothing to do with intonation?

Yes, my bad, they are the saddle height screws.

Sorry for the confusion.

[louis cyfer]

Make sure that the two intonation screws in the saddle are making positive
contact with the bridge plate.

you mean the saddle height screws, right? And am I correct that those have nothing to do with intonation?

he is talking about the height adjustment screws, but they do effect the intonation.

[johnnyqb]

he is talking about the height adjustment screws, but they do effect the intonation.

I didn't know that; I thought only the horizontal-distance screws affected intonation. Clearly the height-saddle screws can require you to re-intonate; but you would not use to actually intonate, right?

[louis cyfer]

he is talking about the height adjustment screws, but they do effect the intonation.

I didn't know that; I thought only the horizontal-distance screws affected intonation. Clearly the height-saddle screws can require you to re-intonate; but you would not use to actually intonate, right?

right. but to say that they have nothing to do with intonation is inaccurate.

[gadgetfreak]

I have a buzz on my open D string only, this is from the nut. I am taking it to my friend's shop and he can rectify the problem in a couple minutes. But in your situation where it's buzzing open and fretted it's a culmination of several factors. All of you guys have a valid point,sound's like you just need a good setup, truss rod,nut,saddle height etc.. Wouldn't hurt to have frets dressed like you mentioned as well but cool that you have it playable again. I have a lot of guitars and it sucks when something starts to go awry