Changing strings

[gunther1]

Yes, I actually know how to change strings. I've also been playing professionally more than changing strings. So, I've lost alot of data I used to know or thought I knew about strings.

Useless trivia -- I grew up on vintage Fenders and LaBella nickel wrapped flats (Isn't there a band out there called "Nickelwrap?"). I've used a Gibson Tobias Killer B 5 string with SR2000 Will Lee gauge for a good decade. I just got used to them and found no need to change. BTW, this G&L is an L-2500 made in 1996, S/N B000777 and has a 4+1 tuner configuration. Is this "vintage" G&L? It's quite pristine.

But the G&L begs for change. I have a set of SR2000 on it now I realize I'm getting the same sound literally as the Tobias. I don't want that sound. I want a vintage Fender sound like my old 57 P bass.

Enough BS. Question is how many days should I relax the neck with no strings before putting on new LaBella flats? I'm going to take off the 2000's, relax the truss rod for a good three days, then what's the next step? Haven't done this in years. Help is appreciated.

[Craig]

Hmm, doesn't seem to be anyone here who can help with your questions.
You might try our low end brothers over at The Official G&L Bass Support Forum at http://www.bassesbyleo.com.
Ken Baker, who runs the place there, is also a member here but I have not seen him around lately.

Hope this helps.

[KenC]

I've never relaxed a neck between sets of strings. Except for the first string change on a new-to-me G&L bass (when I check the neck pocket dates), I change one string at a time to maintain something close to normal tension on the neck.

I've recently gone crazy over LaBella flats myself. I put a set of Deep Talkin' Bass (.105-.045) on my L-1000 last month, and do not anticipate changing them out for a long, long time. The feel and sound are incredible, with tons of fundamental but still quite a bit of top-end clarity. This will be my new string of choice for anything with a large MFD humbucker, although I may try a set of Original 1954s on the L-2000E just to see how the slightly greater diameter works. I'm also planning to try a set of LaBella quarter rounds on the Interceptor, in hopes that they will give a slightly more aggressive sound.

What set are you going to put on your 2K? I would love to read a tone report!

Ken

[FidgetStone]

I am with KenC on this one. I do the same thing. My bass strings of choice these days are D'Addario chome flats. For me, everything Ken says about the LaBellas is true of the Chomes. I may give the LaBellas a try next go around. I like to keep definition in the highs but I just can't live without the strong fundamental that flat wounds provide. My bass is a butterscotch ASAT by the way.

Peace . . .

[KenC]

Fidget,

I'm running D'Addario Chromes on my L-2KE. It has the same 'hog/maple combination as the L-1K, and the D'Addarios do sound and feel great on it. The performance you get for the price of the D'Addarios is hard to believe. In my experience with these very similar instruments, the LaBellas take everything that's good about the D'Addarios and at least double it. I've been that impressed with them. I hope your experience will be the same if you try them.

Ken

[FidgetStone]

Ken,
If my Chromes wern't brand new I'd be on the way to the store to pick up the LaBellas right now. I will give them a try on the next go round. Thanks . . .

[FenderGuy53]

"Relaxing the neck" and "changing the strings one at a time" is urban legends stuff.

I've been doing my own setups for years now, using Dan Erlewine's book, "Guitar Player Repair Guide" as a reference point.

I always store my guitars in cases or gig bags, in a climate-controlled envirinment. I have NEVER "relaxed the neck" and I have ALWAYS removed ALL 6 strings first, then replaced the strings, starting at the LOW E and working up.

Apart from some minor tweaking along the way, my guitars stays tuned and intonated, with proper relief and action, until the next setup.

My $.02.

[louis cyfer]

"Relaxing the neck" and "changing the strings one at a time" is urban legends stuff.

I've been doing my own setups for years now, using Dan Erlewine's book, "Guitar Player Repair Guide" as a reference point.

I always store my guitars in cases or gig bags, in a climate-controlled envirinment. I have NEVER "relaxed the neck" and I have ALWAYS removed ALL 6 strings first, then replaced the strings, starting at the LOW E and working up.

Apart from some minor tweaking along the way, my guitars stays tuned and intonated, with proper relief and action, until the next setup.

My $.02.

have you ever had a pro set them up? i did my own setups for 15 years, until i had one of the best techs in the world set one up. i have not done a set up since. the difference is ridiculous.

[KenC]

I change one string at a time to maintain something close to normal tension on the neck.

"...changing the strings one at a time" is urban legends stuff.

I agree that it's not necessary, but I do it one-at-a-time anyway. This is mainly because I have a lot of vibrato-equipped guitars, and don't want to take the chance on a DFV bridge dinging the finish. Otherwise I would need to shim beneath the bridge for every string change.

I do one-at-a-time on bass as a habit carried over from the upright. Having to reposition the bridge, re-tension all the strings and and let the top get used to four new strings at once was a mistake I'll only make once. Now I change the upright strings over a period of several weeks. Fortunately I only need to change them once every couple of years.

I do take the strings all off the ebony and rosewood boards once a year or so, to allow a good application of walnut oil. I don't gunk up the maple boards fast enough to need deep cleanings though.

Ken