Barrel Jack Replacement

[darwinohm]

I use a Senheisser G3 remote on my bass and when first using my new L-2500 I had static from the output jack. I first discovered this the first time I gigged it. I lubed it and it cleared up. Last weekend it would cut out on me and I used my backup Stingray to finish the set. I then found a way to set the cord so it had side pressure and it worked the rest of the weekend. Today I picked up a Switchcraft Barrel jack (on warranty) and replaced it.

What I found was surprising and after the jack comments I have read on this forum, I expected to find a cheap jack in this bass. Much to my surprise it was a Switchcraft jack. Now this is a quality part. I think the G&L jacks are the victim of a bad rap. The real problem is that the jacks are manufactured for 1/4 inch. I discovered a 1/4 inch cable worked well. A lot of cables today have a metric end on them which is a bit smaller. I have a known one and it is not reliable in my amp either. The other problem is that barrel jack cannot be adjusted internally. If you use an open jack, you can bend the prongs so they will work on anything you put in it. I installed the new Switchcraft and it does work fine with a metric plug but I think is a tolerance issue. The jacks now have a nut on the inside and are easy to change. So in the end I do not think that the jacks are the problem but a lot of plugs are metric. My opinion only-- Darwin

[sickbutnottired]

.243 jacks are a pain in the 'ol kiester.

i agree overall, but I feel like the barrel jack spring is not good for as many reps as the open jacks. Of course I am entirely making that up, but that's how it seems to me.

[darwinohm]

I agree SBNT. At least you can bend the contacts on the open jacks. There is nothing you can do with the barrel jack but replace it. -- Darwin