New USA Comanche.DF bridge way out of spec.???

[noonsound]

Hi
I have a brand new Redburst USA Comanche that I just received before Christmas. My first G&L.
The action was very high when I received it (I'm in Australia) I thought the flight and change in temperatures may have contributed to neck change. I checked that and adjusted it as it was high. I then started looking at the bridge only to find that it arrived set up with a tilt (as with a Fender tremolo) which I have since found out is incorrect and should be level with the body. No wonder the arm kept changing pick up selection for me.
I have found the current specifications posted by Craig which states the bridge plate should be level at 1/8" to the body.
If I adjust my bridge to be level with the body it will be about half that distance @ 1/16".
Do I go with this height despite the factories supposed specifications or am I supposed to raise the two pivot bolts at the front of the bridge?
If I am supposed to raise these two bolts how do I do it as none of the Allen keys supplied fit these bolts? Which leads me to believe that I am not supposed to touch them.
If someone could get back to me with a some answers it would be much appreciated, I am somewhat disappointed that this guitar straight from the factory (via dealer in Massachusetts) would have so many things not set up correctly.
Thank you in anticipation.

[Craig]

Hi
I have a brand new Redburst USA Comanche that I just received before Christmas. My first G&L.
The action was very high when I received it (I'm in Australia) I thought the flight and change in temperatures may have contributed to neck change. I checked that and adjusted it as it was high. I then started looking at the bridge only to find that it arrived set up with a tilt (as with a Fender tremolo) which I have since found out is incorrect and should be level with the body. No wonder the arm kept changing pick up selection for me.
I have found the current specifications posted by Craig which states the bridge plate should be level at 1/8" to the body.
If I adjust my bridge to be level with the body it will be about half that distance @ 1/16".
Do I go with this height despite the factories supposed specifications or am I supposed to raise the two pivot bolts at the front of the bridge?
If I am supposed to raise these two bolts how do I do it as none of the Allen keys supplied fit these bolts? Which leads me to believe that I am not supposed to touch them.
If someone could get back to me with a some answers it would be much appreciated, I am somewhat disappointed that this guitar straight from the factory (via dealer in Massachusetts) would have so many things not set up correctly.
Thank you in anticipation.

I can certainly understand your disappointment.

It is very, very unlikely that this guitar left the factory setup as it is now.
It sounds like perhaps the dealer had done an incorrect setup on the guitar
(using Fender specs) prior to shipping, but that is just speculation at this point.

I brought your post to the Steve Grom's (Director of Manufacturing) attention and he replied:

Hi Craig,

You are correct with the setup spec of the bridge sitting parallel to the body with about 1/8" between the bottom of the bridge plate and top of the body.

The mounting posts for the Dual Fulcrum Bridge really should not need adjusting (one reason we don't supply a wrench that size).

Regarding this particular instrument, without seeing the instrument, it's very difficult to determine why the gap between the bottom of the bridge and the top of the body is less than 1/8". You may want to ask if the whole tremolo system works to the customer's satisfaction with a slightly reduced gap. Depending on his particular playing style, this may or may not be an issue.

Without seeing the instrument it's hard to really know exactly what needs to be done to get it to 100% of the factory spec.

I'd suggest getting the additional information you outlined and we can go from there.

Thanks

Steve

So, if you can provide the following information to me, either via a PM or email:

- Serial Number
- G&L Dealer's name
- Was the guitar from dealer's existing stock or did he place a new order for it?
- Did you have any special request for type/gauge of strings you wanted the dealer to
install prior to shipment?
- Does the whole tremolo system works to your satisfaction with a slightly reduced gap?
- Your name and email address

I will make sure this information gets to Steve.

You should also insure the neck is completely settled into the neck pocket. See this post for the simple procedure
for re-setting the neck: String alignment issues and a simple cure.

Hope this helps.

[Michael-GnL-Michael]

.

It might help if you could take several really good pictures?

[noonsound]

Hi Craig,

Firstly let me thank you for your super quick response to my post and if you could also pass on my appreciation to Steve Grom for his equally quick response.
I have just sent you an email with all the details you suggested.

For information of others. The neck position in the pocket is fine.
I have set the bridge parallel and made adjustments to saddles and intonation etc..
The bridge plate measures barely 1/16" from the guitar but appears to function OK at that height. Will gig tonight and the next two nights and see how it functions.
As I explained in my email to Craig, the vibrato (which arrived separately from the dealer) was what really brought the bridge to my attention as it was angled in to the body due to the bridge being angled upward. As it is now (level) the vibrato arm has very very close clearance over the top of the pick up selector switch in the middle position.
I shall report back further after gigging and look forward to any further comments from you (Craig) and also Steve.
Thanks again

[Craig]

Hi Craig,

Firstly let me thank you for your super quick response to my post and if you could also pass on my appreciation to Steve Grom for his equally quick response.
I have just sent you an email with all the details you suggested.

For information of others. The neck position in the pocket is fine.
I have set the bridge parallel and made adjustments to saddles and intonation etc..
The bridge plate measures barely 1/16" from the guitar but appears to function OK at that height. Will gig tonight and the next two nights and see how it functions.
As I explained in my email to Craig, the vibrato (which arrived separately from the dealer) was what really brought the bridge to my attention as it was angled in to the body due to the bridge being angled upward. As it is now (level) the vibrato arm has very very close clearance over the top of the pick up selector switch in the middle position.
I shall report back further after gigging and look forward to any further comments from you (Craig) and also Steve.
Thanks again

I got your email and forwarded it to Steve.

Regarding the vibrato arm, you can raise or lower the arm in the arm socket. It does not need to be inserted all the way in.
Loosen the allen set screw and insert the arm to the height you want, but leave enough of the bar in the arm socket so
that the set screw and nylon bushing can make full contact with the bar. Tighten the set screw, but not too tight. That
way you can remove the arm prior to putting the guitar back in it's case. You should be able to remove/insert the bar
without the need to adjust the set screw, each time.

Hope this helps.

[Miles Smiles]

It is very, very unlikely that this guitar left the factory setup as it is now.

Impossible, I would say. A trem that's not just not parallel, but so steep angled, that the arm touches the switch, impossible.

As the lower trem-plate just limits the plate when the arm is pulled, it might not disturb, but for changing the height with the right wrench (metric I suppose), the strings have to be loose, so they don't pull the edge of the plate into the pivots while the pivots are turned, else (slightly) damages will be done.

[noonsound]

Hi Craig & everybody,
Thank you Craig for passing my email on to Steve Grom. I will be interested to hear why he thinks the guitar didn't arrive as it should have.
Just reporting back after 3 gigs over the weekend. The Comanche seemed to perform well. I am loving the extra tone, body and output of the pick-ups. I have a number of guitars but my main workhorse has been a 1988 Strat Plus that I have had since new and the Comanche makes it sound "lame" for want of a better word. I am after a couple of weeks now finding the neck very comfortable and of course the finish makes me shudder with pride when ever I look back and see it on stage with stage lights highlighting the Redburst flame maple top etc.

Regarding the vibrato arm, you can raise or lower the arm in the arm socket. It does not need to be inserted all the way in.
Loosen the allen set screw and insert the arm to the height you want, but leave enough of the bar in the arm socket so
that the set screw and nylon bushing can make full contact with the bar.

I had sorted the vibrato arm position and set screw out but my problem is I like my arm loose so as to fall away when not in use, so consequently if I have it loose it inevitably works it's way closer to being all the way in the socket. If I keep the bridge set properly it should be OK in terms of clearing the PUP selector switch but it is very close. Having been a Strat player for the last few decades it is particularly noticeable as the arm on the Strat angles up a lot more so it will take a fair bit of getting used to.
I think if the bridge had been at the factory spec height from the body I would have had to drop the saddles down a fair way to get the action correct. When I say correct I don't mean really low, just to standard factory height. As it was I had to adjust the neck to bring the action to .010" at the 8th fret on the 6th and also lower the saddles a bit. So as I say it will be interesting to hear if Steve Grom has any further thoughts on what happened. As everyone agrees it would seem unimaginable that the factory would send it out this way but at the same time I can't imagine why an authorised dealer would bother wasting his time altering it (incorrectly) when all he had to do is ship it to me.
Anyway that's the latest from me I am feeling happier now I appear to have it close to what it should be but still disappointed that I didn't receive it in optimum playing condition straight from the creators.
Thanks again to all.

[Craig]

Hi Craig & everybody,
Thank you Craig for passing my email on to Steve Grom. I will be interested to hear why he thinks the guitar didn't arrive as it should have.
Just reporting back after 3 gigs over the weekend. The Comanche seemed to perform well. I am loving the extra tone, body and output of the pick-ups. I have a number of guitars but my main workhorse has been a 1988 Strat Plus that I have had since new and the Comanche makes it sound "lame" for want of a better word. I am after a couple of weeks now finding the neck very comfortable and of course the finish makes me shudder with pride when ever I look back and see it on stage with stage lights highlighting the Redburst flame maple top etc.

Regarding the vibrato arm, you can raise or lower the arm in the arm socket. It does not need to be inserted all the way in.
Loosen the allen set screw and insert the arm to the height you want, but leave enough of the bar in the arm socket so
that the set screw and nylon bushing can make full contact with the bar.

I had sorted the vibrato arm position and set screw out but my problem is I like my arm loose so as to fall away when not in use, so consequently if I have it loose it inevitably works it's way closer to being all the way in the socket. If I keep the bridge set properly it should be OK in terms of clearing the PUP selector switch but it is very close. Having been a Strat player for the last few decades it is particularly noticeable as the arm on the Strat angles up a lot more so it will take a fair bit of getting used to.
I think if the bridge had been at the factory spec height from the body I would have had to drop the saddles down a fair way to get the action correct. When I say correct I don't mean really low, just to standard factory height. As it was I had to adjust the neck to bring the action to .010" at the 8th fret on the 6th and also lower the saddles a bit. So as I say it will be interesting to hear if Steve Grom has any further thoughts on what happened. As everyone agrees it would seem unimaginable that the factory would send it out this way but at the same time I can't imagine why an authorised dealer would bother wasting his time altering it (incorrectly) when all he had to do is ship it to me.
Anyway that's the latest from me I am feeling happier now I appear to have it close to what it should be but still disappointed that I didn't receive it in optimum playing condition straight from the creators.
Thanks again to all.

It sounds like your Comanche passed the gig test.

I did hear back from Steve:

Craig,

Unfortunately once an instrument leaves the factory it becomes difficult to know what happens
as it goes through various people, dealers, distributors, technicians, etc. Any comment on my
part would only be a guess and that doesn't go very far in coming up with an answer. If the setup
from the factory was the problem, then that can be addressed with the people here in Fullerton.
If someone along the way made some changes ... we will never know.

Steve

I am sorry that we are not able to provide an answer as to why you received it setup as you described.
You might contact the selling dealer and ask them what their process was prior to shipping it to you.

I am glad to hear you are feeling happier with the current setup. Of course, you could raise the pivot posts
up a sixteen of an inch and set it back to the factory specs.

We all sure would love to see a photo or two of your guitar, so, when you get a chance, please post the
photos in our G&L Porn!!! sub-forum.
And don't forget to had it to our G&L Registry, too.

[noonsound]

Hi Craig,
Thanks for that message and passing on Steve Grom's reply.
I shall certainly try to get some pictures posted as it does look brilliant. Capturing the colour correctly is hard as I'm sure everybody else has found out.

Of course, you could raise the pivot posts
up a sixteen of an inch and set it back to the factory specs.

I guess if I wanted to do that, it gets back to my original post. Do you or anyone have any instructions on how to raise the pivot posts safely and successfully and what size allen key??
I don't know if I need to, but I would be tempted if I wasn't at risk of ruining something.

Thank You

[Craig]

Hi Craig,
Thanks for that message and passing on Steve Grom's reply.
I shall certainly try to get some pictures posted as it does look brilliant. Capturing the colour correctly is hard as I'm sure everybody else has found out.

Of course, you could raise the pivot posts
up a sixteen of an inch and set it back to the factory specs.

I guess if I wanted to do that, it gets back to my original post. Do you or anyone have any instructions on how to raise the pivot posts safely and successfully and what size allen key??
I don't know if I need to, but I would be tempted if I wasn't at risk of ruining something.

Thank You

The size is 3mm. We have a list of all the allen wrench sizes in the Tech Tips sub-forum: Can you tell me which allen wrenches I need for my G&L?

You should de-tune all strings, so they are slack, before raising the posts.

Hope this helps.