Medium Jumbo Frets on 7.5 radius?

Ivo · Post by **Ivo** » Fri Dec 02, 2011 1:44 am

I have never seen a forum where the people are so patient!

Like Michael said, to make it more complicated

, look how the tinted finishes can vary, the top three are tinted finishes (the left one turns almost orange)

dogari · Post by **dogari** » Fri Dec 02, 2011 6:10 am

tnx

i want to ask about Stainless Steel It's worth the extra money?
And how much this upgrade costs?

tnx again

dogari.

Post by **Craig** » Fri Dec 02, 2011 9:11 am

dogari wrote:tnx

i want to ask about Stainless Steel It's worth the extra money?
And how much this upgrade costs?

tnx again

dogari.

IMO, SS is worth the extra money.

We do not allow posting of prices of new G&L instruments including the cost of options.

At this point, you need to contact a dealer/distributor and work with them on the specific
costs for your order. If you tell me your location, I can tell you which dealers/distributors are
in your area.

dogari · Post by **dogari** » Fri Dec 02, 2011 10:38 am

who is the best dealer of G&L in us?

suave eddie · Post by **suave eddie** » Fri Dec 02, 2011 5:36 pm

Back to your original questions regarding fret size and board radius--

These are separate and personal issues and no one here can tell you what is "best".

Some people do not like to feel the fingerboard when they play. If this is your preference, get the jumbo frets. I started out playing violin as a child and it would feel strange to me not to be able to feel the fingerboard. I prefer the vintage smaller frets. This is not due to a "death grip" as Louis Cyfer suggests.

With the taller frets you may also feel a difference gliding up and down the neck. A whole generation of players learned and played on "vintage" size frets. The popularity of the larger frets is relatively new.

I find the difference between the smaller and larger radius necks rather subtle--others may disagree. I find the flatter radius gives the illusion of the neck being a bit wider, and after playing for many years on the 7.5" radius, I find that I do like the flatter 12" now.

Without being able to actually try out the differences, your choice may be difficult.

Good luck.

dogari · Post by **dogari** » Fri Dec 02, 2011 6:32 pm

I'm tall but I have relatively small hands so flatter radius is not so good for me

i ask about this:

G&L Vintage "C" C 1 5/8" 7 1/2" 0.830" 0.960" with dunlop 6100 Stainless Steel Medium Jumbo
or
G&L Vintage "C" C 1 5/8" 7 1/2" 0.830" 0.960" with dunlop 6230 Stainless Steel vinatge fret

and craig say he will go for
G&L Vintage "C" C 1 5/8" 7 1/2" 0.830" 0.960" with dunlop 6100 Stainless Steel Medium Jumbo
he think this is good combination But I can not check if this combination good I do not have the option
so I have to rely on what others who know say
All the time people tell me it will be difficult to do bending on dunlop 6230

also about this
G&L Heritage Vintage "C"

Where can find her in Fender? in the vintage 62?

and some one can give me a good dealer in us that i can ask for price offer?

tnx

dogari

Michael-GnL-Michael · Fri Dec 02, 2011 10:38 pm

dogari wrote:I'm tall but I have relatively small hands so flatter radius is not so good for me

The widths of the 12" radius neck and the 7.5" radius neck are the same unless you specifically order a wider neck as in a #3 through #10. Some people perceive a difference but it is only a sensation from the curve. It may be enough for you to alter your finger position to produce the feeling that it is wider. It will depend on your finger shape and size as well as your sensitivity. To me it is very subtle to the point where I would not hesitate to buy a guitar based on it having one or the other radius as long as it had been PLEKed.

dogari wrote:All the time people tell me it will be difficult to do bending on dunlop 6230

Did they ever explain why? Of all things I wonder why bending would be more difficult? I understand gliding/sliding taking practice to adjust to larger frets.

dogari wrote:a good dealer in us that i can ask for price offer?

I sent you a PM about this one.

louis cyfer · Post by **louis cyfer** » Sat Dec 03, 2011 12:34 am

Michael-GnL-Michael wrote:
dogari wrote:I'm tall but I have relatively small hands so flatter radius is not so good for me
The widths of the 12" radius neck and the 7.5" radius neck are the same unless you specifically order a wider neck as in a #3 through #10. Some people perceive a difference but it is only a sensation from the curve. It may be enough for you to alter your finger position to produce the feeling that it is wider. It will depend on your finger shape and size as well as your sensitivity. To me it is very subtle to the point where I would not hesitate to buy a guitar based on it having one or the other radius as long as it had been PLEKed.

dogari wrote:All the time people tell me it will be difficult to do bending on dunlop 6230
Did they ever explain why? Of all things I wonder why bending would be more difficult? I understand gliding/sliding taking practice to adjust to larger frets.

dogari wrote:a good dealer in us that i can ask for price offer?
I sent you a PM about this one.

the dunlop 6230 is the smaller frets.

Michael-GnL-Michael · Post by **Michael-GnL-Michael** » Sat Dec 03, 2011 1:08 am

louis cyfer wrote:the dunlop 6230 is the smaller frets.

I have not had trouble bending strings on small frets.

I do think getting clear chords is more difficult with lower frets not necessarily smaller frets.

dogari · Post by **dogari** » Sat Dec 03, 2011 11:32 am

Michael-GnL-Michael wrote:
dogari wrote:I'm tall but I have relatively small hands so flatter radius is not so good for me
The widths of the 12" radius neck and the 7.5" radius neck are the same unless you specifically order a wider neck as in a #3 through #10. Some people perceive a difference but it is only a sensation from the curve. It may be enough for you to alter your finger position to produce the feeling that it is wider. It will depend on your finger shape and size as well as your sensitivity. To me it is very subtle to the point where I would not hesitate to buy a guitar based on it having one or the other radius as long as it had been PLEKed.

dogari wrote:All the time people tell me it will be difficult to do bending on dunlop 6230
Did they ever explain why? Of all things I wonder why bending would be more difficult? I understand gliding/sliding taking practice to adjust to larger frets.
dogari wrote:a good dealer in us that i can ask for price offer?
I sent you a PM about this one.

bekuz the small size .080" x .043 they fretting out.

suave eddie · Post by **suave eddie** » Sat Dec 03, 2011 1:04 pm

The more people you talk to , the more conflicting opinions you will get.
Can't bend with small frets....can't bend with small radius......one dealer told me that you get more sustain with larger frets........on and on.

Hendrix, Clapton, Beck, Page....all used to play 60's Fender Teles and Strats.....which I assume had "vintage" style necks and frets....they had no trouble bending notes (someone correct me if I am wrong)

If the size of your hands is your concern, the size and shape of the NECK, not the curvature of the fingerboard, or the size of the frets should be most important.

You will play at your best with what is most COMFORTABLE for you to play.

Michael-GnL-Michael · Post by **Michael-GnL-Michael** » Sat Dec 03, 2011 1:05 pm

dogari wrote:bekuz the small size .080" x .043 they fretting out.

Okay, I would not think of that as bending being difficult. This is more like uncovering a problem in the guitar that shows up when bending notes. Fretting out is in the design and set up of the neck. Fortunately post-2006 G&Ls are PLEKed and with a good set up fretting out should not be a widespread problem, however it does occur more often with a higher degree of curve radius.

dogari · Post by **dogari** » Sat Dec 03, 2011 1:45 pm

i only know that i want 7.5 radius neck dont know what to choose about the fret

G&L Vintage "C" C 1 5/8" 7 1/2" 0.830" 0.960" with Dunlop 6230 Stainless Steel vintage frets
G&L Vintage "C" C 1 5/8" 7 1/2" 0.830" 0.960" with dunlop 6100 Stainless Steel medium jumbo
G&L Heritage Vintage "C" C 1 5/8" 7 1/2" 0.790" 0.910" with Dunlop 6230 Stainless Steel vintage frets

dogari

louis cyfer · Post by **louis cyfer** » Sat Dec 03, 2011 9:21 pm

dogari wrote:
Michael-GnL-Michael wrote:
dogari wrote:I'm tall but I have relatively small hands so flatter radius is not so good for me
The widths of the 12" radius neck and the 7.5" radius neck are the same unless you specifically order a wider neck as in a #3 through #10. Some people perceive a difference but it is only a sensation from the curve. It may be enough for you to alter your finger position to produce the feeling that it is wider. It will depend on your finger shape and size as well as your sensitivity. To me it is very subtle to the point where I would not hesitate to buy a guitar based on it having one or the other radius as long as it had been PLEKed.

dogari wrote:All the time people tell me it will be difficult to do bending on dunlop 6230
Did they ever explain why? Of all things I wonder why bending would be more difficult? I understand gliding/sliding taking practice to adjust to larger frets.
dogari wrote:a good dealer in us that i can ask for price offer?
I sent you a PM about this one.
bekuz the small size .080" x .043 they fretting out.

frets do not fret out because of size. if they are level and the neck is straight, the fret size does not matter as far as that. smaller frets do have less room under the finger when trying to bend, so getting a good grip on the string for large bends can be more difficult, the string can pop out from under the finger easier. but it depends on the action and the individual fingertip shape. some experience this, some don't. on smaller radius you have to have a higher action to be able to do big bends on the e and b strings. that is just the way the geometry works out. people who want low action and like to bend big can experience fretting out with the smaller radius. not related to fretsize. however with bigger frets a tech can cheat the radius, as there is more material available to play with. they actually lower the radius above the 12th fret gradually, by dressing the frets lower in the middle strings. can't really do that with small frets, not enough material.

you still have not responded about your playing experience and style, it can make a difference in trying to help you choose.

louis cyfer · Post by **louis cyfer** » Sat Dec 03, 2011 9:26 pm

suave eddie wrote:The more people you talk to , the more conflicting opinions you will get.
Can't bend with small frets....can't bend with small radius......one dealer told me that you get more sustain with larger frets........on and on.

Hendrix, Clapton, Beck, Page....all used to play 60's Fender Teles and Strats.....which I assume had "vintage" style necks and frets....they had no trouble bending notes (someone correct me if I am wrong)

If the size of your hands is your concern, the size and shape of the NECK, not the curvature of the fingerboard, or the size of the frets should be most important.

You will play at your best with what is most COMFORTABLE for you to play.

you have to remember that fender spec was very different back than. the action at the 12th fret was 8/64ths or higher. they used the old martin specs actually. the small radius on the neck and the small frets were just fine with that kind of action. fret leveling wasn't even important. people were also only used to small frets. even string gauges were very limited.

dogari · Post by **dogari** » Mon Dec 05, 2011 7:30 am

I play guitar for over 8 years
hendrix ,mc5 ,alan collins , guns n roses , jimmy page. van halen , nirvana Etc. ..
In short rock , hard rock . grunge

also i have gibson so i need strat that feel strat

I'm thinking of taking vintage fret SS6200
i dont know if SS6100 (this is jumbo size like in ibanez)
match well on radius 7.5

what you think?

dogari

louis cyfer · Post by **louis cyfer** » Mon Dec 05, 2011 9:05 am

dogari wrote:I play guitar for over 8 years
hendrix ,mc5 ,alan collins , guns n roses , jimmy page. van halen , nirvana Etc. ..
In short rock , hard rock . grunge

also i have gibson so i need strat that feel strat

I'm thinking of taking vintage fret SS6200
i dont know if SS6100 (this is jumbo size like in ibanez)
match well on radius 7.5

what you think?

dogari

it matches very well. i have several 7.25 guitars with 6100 frets. one with 6000 frets. matches great.

dogari · Post by **dogari** » Mon Dec 05, 2011 9:47 am

I really do not know what to decide
SS6230 or SS6100

what you think about the shape neck G&L Heritage Vintage "C" Compared to G&L Vintage "C" ?

this is the only two things that I not decided what to do about them.

dogari

louis cyfer · Post by **louis cyfer** » Mon Dec 05, 2011 3:48 pm

dogari wrote:I really do not know what to decide
SS6230 or SS6100

what you think about the shape neck G&L Heritage Vintage "C" Compared to G&L Vintage "C" ?

this is the only two things that I not decided what to do about them.

dogari

if youi don't like the big frets you can always dress them lower. if you don't like the vintage ones, it's 4-500 bucks for a stainless fretjob. i really like the vintage c. neck. i have big hands though.

suave eddie · Post by **suave eddie** » Mon Dec 05, 2011 8:18 pm

Does anyone know what current neck profile is closest to the original SC-1 and SC-2?

The neck on my SC-1 in the avatar photo has a very flat neck profile...Not a rounded C shape....I'm thinking it might be close to the current "Heritage Vintage C" but I am not sure.
I've had it for close to 20 years now, and the action is extremely low. I had the original frets filed lower when I first got it so they are similar to vintage size frets. I don't normally bend more than a full step and I have never had it fret out on me. With the style of music you play, you may do more extreme bending than I do, so it's hard to say if that would be an issue. But as Louis Cypher mentined above, that could be alleviated with an adjustment in setup.

Michael-GnL-Michael · Mon Dec 05, 2011 10:43 pm

.

Considering the style of music dogari plays it might be relevant to discuss the string gauge he uses and whether or not string gauge tends to enhance potential problems with different fret gauge/neck radius combinations.

.

dogari · Post by **dogari** » Tue Dec 06, 2011 1:54 am

size string 10 on my gibson and 9 or 10 on strat

dogari.

dogari · Post by **dogari** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 8:23 am

about the fret

maybe i will take ss6100 on 7.5 But really I'm a little afraid
if was ss6105 I would not think twice

the jumbo ss6100 on 7.5 i dont know if it will be good.

dogari

louis cyfer · Post by **louis cyfer** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 10:01 am

dogari wrote:about the fret

maybe i will take ss6100 on 7.5 But really I'm a little afraid
if was ss6105 I would not think twice

the jumbo ss6100 on 7.5 i dont know if it will be good.

dogari

the 6100 is nicer than the 6105 to play, even on 7.5"

sickbutnottired · Post by **sickbutnottired** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 11:21 am

I REALLY don't think you will be disappointed with 6100 on 7.5". To me, fret wire is not one of the things to be most concerned about. I used to prefer 7.5" radius necks and have had quite a pile of G&L's with that neck, and a lot of them had 6100 wire.

My first guitar and low vintage frets, and I remember when I got my second real guitar after playing the vintages exclusively it took me about 2 weeks to get rid the death grip I had developed so I could play in tune! But now I go back and forth between 7.5/12r and it just takes a few minutes to adjust, regardless of fret wire.

IMHO - If you get ss, and 6100 you will never have to re-fret, even if you take on a Jascha Heifetz prescribed practice regime!

On bends - I have an series II f-100 with low e string height at 17 just at 3/64, I think it's over 2/64 and under 3/64 at 12, and I can bend 1.5 notes anywhere I want.

Don't sweat all this little stuff, pull the trigger, man!

dogari · Post by **dogari** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 6:54 pm

ok i will take ss6100 Instead ss6230

my Last Question shape neck:

G&L Heritage Vintage "C" Compared to G&L Vintage "C"

What is this shape: G&L Heritage Vintage "C" ?

tnx

dogari

Michael-GnL-Michael · Thu Dec 08, 2011 10:20 pm

.

The Heritage is a shallow version of a "C" shape neck.

It is not as deep.....front to back.

In the descriptions used in your post the shape is the "C" whether referring to a Heritage, Vintage or Heritage Vintage.

.

dogari · Post by **dogari** » Fri Dec 09, 2011 3:40 am

i take

7.5 with ss6100

What would be the best choice for this Combination?

2 G&L Vintage "C" C 1 5/8" 7 1/2" 0.830" 0.960"
or
2b G&L Heritage Vintage "C" C 1 5/8" 7 1/2" 0.790" 0.910"

dogari

Post by **Craig** » Fri Dec 09, 2011 8:08 am

dogari wrote:i take

7.5 with ss6100

What would be the best choice for this Combination?

2 G&L Vintage "C" C 1 5/8" 7 1/2" 0.830" 0.960"
or
2b G&L Heritage Vintage "C" C 1 5/8" 7 1/2" 0.790" 0.910"

dogari

It's time for YOU to make that choice.

Ask yourself: do you prefer a slim neck or a less slim neck and
then select the one which matches your preference.

Hope this helps.

dogari · Post by **dogari** » Fri Dec 09, 2011 12:51 pm

I do not have to option to check it so I have to ask.

dogari

louis cyfer · Post by **louis cyfer** » Fri Dec 09, 2011 2:58 pm

with small hands you might like the smaller one. i like the bigger one myself.

dogari · Post by **dogari** » Sat Dec 10, 2011 5:35 am

I do not know what to choose

dogari.

Post by **Craig** » Sat Dec 10, 2011 7:48 am

dogari wrote:I do not know what to choose

dogari.

Okay, then, I would choose: 2 G&L Vintage "C" C 1 5/8" 7 1/2" 0.830" 0.960".

But if you prefer a thinner neck, choose: 2b G&L Heritage Vintage "C" C 1 5/8" 7 1/2" 0.790" 0.910".

Time to make the choice and then you can place your order. Which G&L dealer are you planning to order from?

louis cyfer · Post by **louis cyfer** » Sat Dec 10, 2011 12:07 pm

dogari wrote:I do not know what to choose

dogari.

there is no way to know at this point. either one will work, the difference is not that big. to know, you'd have to play each for a little while. you are just gonna have to take the plunge. do you usually have a hard time making decisions with other things?

dogari · Post by **dogari** » Sat Dec 10, 2011 12:17 pm

Usually not

But when I do not have the possibility to check it this is a problem.

louis cyfer · Post by **louis cyfer** » Sat Dec 10, 2011 12:23 pm

dogari wrote:Usually not

But when I do not have the possibility to check it this is a problem.

when you play other guitars, what do you prefer, slimmer necks, or more beefy ones?

Michael-GnL-Michael · Sat Dec 10, 2011 12:39 pm

You have described being tall with relatively small hands.

Ignoring the "tall" are your hands average or small compared to other people?

If they are smaller go with the #2b G&L Heritage Vintage "C" C 1 5/8" 7 1/2" 0.790" 0.910"

If they are average go with the 2 G&L Vintage "C" C 1 5/8" 7 1/2" 0.830" 0.960"

dogari · Post by **dogari** » Sun Dec 11, 2011 5:03 am

Anyone know guitar that has a neck similar to the #2b G&L Heritage Vintage "C" C 1 5/8" 7 1/2" 0.790" 0.910"
?

dogari

dogari · Post by **dogari** » Mon Dec 12, 2011 2:14 pm

Post by **Craig** » Mon Dec 12, 2011 5:41 pm

dogari wrote:Anyone know guitar that has a neck similar to the #2b G&L Heritage Vintage "C" C 1 5/8" 7 1/2" 0.790" 0.910"
?

dogari

It would appear that you have exhausted the resources here.

Might I suggest you pick a G&L dealer and work with them to finalize
this last detail? They might be able to give you the comparison you
are looking for.

BTW, I have asked this before, which dealer are you going to order from?

Hope this helps.

dogari · Post by **dogari** » Tue Dec 13, 2011 5:03 pm

yes
neck shape is the only thing that I need to decide about
i see in the C.L.F. Centennial ASAT
for the radius 7.5 and the fret 6100 They decided to put G&L Heritage "C"
http://www.glguitars.com/instruments/US ... /index.asp

why? and What do you think about that?

about the dealer i dont know

about finish neck vintage tint gloos will be sticky in the back of the neck?

dogari

dogari · Post by **dogari** » Wed Dec 14, 2011 1:36 pm

suave eddie · Post by **suave eddie** » Wed Dec 14, 2011 1:58 pm

about finish neck vintage tint gloos will be sticky in the back of the neck?

I personally prefer the gloss finish neck. Some, especially those whose hands tend to sweat a lot prefer the satin finish. I never find it sticky.

dogari · Post by **dogari** » Wed Dec 14, 2011 5:06 pm

suave eddie wrote:
about finish neck vintage tint gloos will be sticky in the back of the neck?

I personally prefer the gloss finish neck. Some, especially those whose hands tend to sweat a lot prefer the satin finish. I never find it sticky.

great

and What about what I asked?

neck shape is the only thing that I need to decide about
i see in the C.L.F. Centennial ASAT
for the radius 7.5 and the fret 6100 They decided to put G&L Heritage "C"
http://www.glguitars.com/instruments/US ... /index.asp

why? and What do you think about that?

dogari

dogari · Post by **dogari** » Thu Dec 15, 2011 7:23 pm

about the bridge:

the legacy have DFS as Standard or i need to say to my dealer to do Upgrade from DF to DFS?

dogari

Post by **Craig** » Thu Dec 15, 2011 7:41 pm

dogari wrote:about the bridge:

the legacy have DFS as Standard or i need to say to my dealer to do Upgrade from DF to DFS?

dogari

The DF vibrato system is standard on the Legacy (except for the 30th Anniversary Legacy,
which has the DFS vibrato system standard). You will have to do an upgrade option to get
the DFS vibrato system. Just in case you have not read the features page on the DF and
DFS vibrato systems, here is the link.

Now I have a question for you: where are you located? (I've asked this before but you still have not answered)

Hope this helps.

dogari · Post by **dogari** » Fri Dec 16, 2011 4:34 am

Netherlands

the DF is like a floyd no? the dfs is Better?
if i take dfs when i use tremolo the guitar will not have this problem "out of Tuning"?

dogari

astutzmann · Post by **astutzmann** » Fri Dec 16, 2011 5:15 am

I have to ask, are you just trying to toy with us?

Otherwise, make up your mind and order a guitar. You will learn more about these wonderful instruments when you have one.

dogari · Post by **dogari** » Fri Dec 16, 2011 6:00 am

astutzmann wrote:I have to ask, are you just trying to toy with us?

Otherwise, make up your mind and order a guitar. You will learn more about these wonderful instruments when you have one.

It's your money or mine? if you dont want to help dont

I ask these questions to know what to order
I would not ask If I had the opportunity to check it
So I have to rely on people who know g&l guitars better then me

Can anyone comment on the sound difference Between DF AND DFS? Is it worth the upgrade?

also about Locking Tuners
with or without ?

dogari.

astutzmann · Post by **astutzmann** » Fri Dec 16, 2011 6:36 am

Your money, our Time.

Good luck!