) progress has been slow to say the least. I'm finally almost done, so I figured I'd post it all in one place.Here's the very beginning, I don't have much in the way of tools, so the initial cuts were made with a circular saw, I then clamped top+Bottom together and sides together to level out my crappy cuts
by the way the furniture like structure I'm using as my work bench is was an organ I got for free and later was turned into a 2x10 cab
The dimensions I chose were based off of the 63-67 Fender Bandmaster 2x12 cab (21'' x 32'' x 11½''), since my amp is a 65' Bandmaster and I like the size of that cab. I used pine from Lowes, it was ok quality, took me a while to find a decent board. Went with finger joints, thinking it wouldn't be that bad.
I wish I had taken pictures of that process, I tried first with a cutout tool/zip saw, then a combo of that and a jig saw. Still no good so I consulted a friend who set me up with a chisel and hammer
In then end I did almost all of the joints by hand with the chisel/hammer. Without a jig it is very difficult to get tight fitting joints. Only one corner was really a solid match, I ended up using nails to pin the joints and plenty of glue. A little wood filler later on and it looks like I almost knew what I was doing
The baffle board is made out of 1/2"(IIRC) birch ply, again from Lowes. I ended up using a dinner platter, that just happened to be pretty close in size to the speaker, to plot out my cut. Again tried the cutout/zip saw, without much success, disappointing because I thought it would be the perfect tool for this. The jig saw ended up being the best route out of what I had. The opening is not perfect but it works. Also tried out a floating baffle, meaning I only put in side cleats and attached the board with a screw in each corner. this allows the baffle to flex more letting the cab contribute more to the tone, no issues with the design as of yet.
I chose the Weber Alnico 15a150b 50watts - Description: replaces Chicago Jensen P15P.
15", 40oz AlNiCo magnet, 30 or 50 watts, 1-1/2" voice coil, ribbed cone.
This speaker is very similar to the original Chicago P15P. Players who want to get more power tube distortion at a lower volume prefer the P15P over the P15N due to its lower sensitivity. I have to agree on that. You can get a great crunch out of this speaker at lower volumes. Medium breakup, crunch and punch. Earlier breakup than a P15N, more focused in the mids and upper mids. Compressed and fattened at higher volumes.
Excellent speaker by the way, it was exactly what I was looking for. It starts to break up a little earlier but not much, I'd say less than one number on the volume dial, still plenty of clean headroom and just a sweet sounding speaker.
Covering! This is the most recent activity, just did it this past week. I used a spray adhesive and some upholstery fabric I found at a local bargain shop that looked close to tweed on the back. Cut the fabric on the floor in my hall (wife loved that one) It went on really a lot easier than I thought, and looked better than I had expected.
But then I had to go and screw it up
I bought Zinser amber shellac to help protect it and give it that aged tweed look, as was suggested from other forums.
It turned out mud brown. The fabric just soaked it right up and I knew after the first brush stroke I had ruined it, wish I had thought to test it on the bottom first or something.
Oh well, my first impression when I finished was that it looked like I pulled it out of a swamp, I guess that's kind of cool in an ugly sort of way though
Here's the tower of power, Bandmaster, 1x15 "Swamp Fox" and 2x10 (formerly a Hammond organ) with my '90 ASAT
Now all that's left is a back panel (going for semi-closed), handle, and glides
-Dave
And yes, I love that ASAT too!
