Nuts

[SunMaster]

I am the proud owner of 2 2015 us g&ls. One z3 and one legacy. I'm not 100% happy with the legacy nut in particular and I'm wondering ig replacing the nut with a tusq is a telatively straightforward task. There's always s million videos about fenders and gibsons but not so much luck here

[Craig]

I am the proud owner of 2 2015 us g&ls. One z3 and one legacy. I'm not 100% happy with the legacy nut in particular and I'm wondering ig replacing the nut with a tusq is a telatively straightforward task. There's always s million videos about fenders and gibsons but not so much luck here

What is the problem with the nut that you are unhappy with? What type of nut is on there currently? If it is the stock (or optional) nut, look at the Custom Build Specifications sheet which came in the envelop with the COA.
The nut type will be listed. The factory stock nut is a 100% natural bone nut and would have been cut by the Plek machine. The optional nut is a Graph-Tech nut.

Are using the stock gauge strings (10's)?

Have you changed the stock setup of the bridge and string heights?

Tells us more about your Legacy's setup and photos might be helpful too.

[SunMaster]

Hi, and thanks a lot for the response.

The problem with the legacy seems to me to be a classical "sticky" nut problem In particular the low E. The nut is made of bone (according to build sheet) and I've restrung it with new d'addarios 10-46. Aside from being my personal pick, they're supposed to be factory strings, I think.

I haven't modified the bridge setup in any way, but I'm not its first owner. I did adjust the trussrod though, and action is set to very low and extremely well playing. Aside from a sticky nut

I added some 'graphite all' lube when I restrung, hoping it would fix it.

Not quite knowing what you want the pictures to show, I shot a few
https://drive.google.com/open?id=19DJ-O ... G3yFWkKCoz
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1IQo8W ... lZAzp359h5
https://drive.google.com/open?id=15ciPh ... JMEPXcHwqr
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1e_VHg ... 0oBOMTAFMT
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1UeMBg ... jg5-2S_qlz

(can't seem to embed images stored in google docs as images)

String action from around 12th fret

Edit: As this is my first guitar with these vintage style tuners, I've now watched a nice instructional video and the tuning posts now look like they've been tuned by an adult - with the string ends down into the hole hehe

[FZTNT]

To me, it looks like all the slots are too deep for the strings. This leads me to wonder if a previous owner put heavier strings on it in the past. It's a shame really cause you can't go back.

Tom

[Craig]

Hi, and thanks a lot for the response.

The problem with the legacy seems to me to be a classical "sticky" nut problem In particular the low E. The nut is made of bone (according to build sheet) and I've restrung it with new d'addarios 10-46. Aside from being my personal pick, they're supposed to be factory strings, I think.

I haven't modified the bridge setup in any way, but I'm not its first owner. I did adjust the trussrod though, and action is set to very low and extremely well playing. Aside from a sticky nut

I added some 'graphite all' lube when I restrung, hoping it would fix it.

Not quite knowing what you want the pictures to show, I shot a few
https://drive.google.com/open?id=19DJ-O ... G3yFWkKCoz
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1IQo8W ... lZAzp359h5
https://drive.google.com/open?id=15ciPh ... JMEPXcHwqr
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1e_VHg ... 0oBOMTAFMT
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1UeMBg ... jg5-2S_qlz

(can't seem to embed images stored in google docs as images)

String action from around 12th fret

Edit: As this is my first guitar with these vintage style tuners, I've now watched a nice instructional video and the tuning posts now look like they've been tuned by an adult - with the string ends down into the hole hehe

I did notice that the strings were installed oddly.

Did you wrap the windings around the string posts so that the last winding is at the bottom of the posts? Here's a photo showing my ASAT Classic 90 windings from the factory setup:
Notice the break angle over the nut.


Did your re-wrap of the strings make a difference in the nut problem?

Another area to check is that the DFV bridge plate needs to be parallel with the top of the body and make sure there is no binding of the bridge when you raise or lower it the trem bar. It should be free floating and
return to the neutral position when released. Areas of possible binding: Nut, pickguard around or near bridge, and trem block path in the trem cavity.

Some references to look at:

For the factory setup see: Current Factory setup for G&L guitars with vibrato bridges. The bridge plate needs to be parallel to the body, not "tilted upward or tilted downward".

A past member's post: Set-Ups, answering some questions.

Hope this helps.

[SunMaster]

https://drive.google.com/open?id=15waxi ... jWEpCNiSGq

It looks a little better now.

The bridge looks a little too raised both visually and by measurement. It may cause it.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1bzcYz ... VSMAQyb4_Y

I'll adjust it tomorrow, and maybe that's it

[Craig]

https://drive.google.com/open?id=15waxi ... jWEpCNiSGq

It looks a little better now.

The bridge looks a little too raised both visually and by measurement. It may cause it.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1bzcYz ... VSMAQyb4_Y

I'll adjust it tomorrow, and maybe that's it

Here are your photos inline: (See: Tutorial: Posting photos)





If you have not trimmed the low 'E' string, you might want to use more wraps around the tuner shaft, so that final wrap is at the bottom of the tuner shaft. This will get you a better break angle over the nut.
Definitely adjust the DFV bridge plate so that it is parallel with the body.

Let us know if this fixes your problem.

[SunMaster]

The bridge is fine now, and I've also done some minor intonation adjustment.

But the problem remains the same. It's mainly the low E and (to a little less extent) A that gets stuck on a higher pitch than the rest. The rest of the strings seems fine.

The low E is trimmed. I can always replace it to get a couple of rounds around the post, but somehow I doubt it solves my issue.

So I have two options - either take it to a local music store and get them to have a look at the nut. Or do what my first idea was - replace the nut with a tusq. The tusq works very well on my SG, which was horrible with the stock nut

It seems pretty easy to just carefully knock out the nut, and replace it with http://www.graphtech.com/products/brand ... c39b4f0382, but you guys here are like walking encyclopedias

[Craig]

The bridge is fine now, and I've also done some minor intonation adjustment.

But the problem remains the same. It's mainly the low E and (to a little less extent) A that gets stuck on a higher pitch than the rest. The rest of the strings seems fine.

The low E is trimmed. I can always replace it to get a couple of rounds around the post, but somehow I doubt it solves my issue.

So I have two options - either take it to a local music store and get them to have a look at the nut. Or do what my first idea was - replace the nut with a tusq. The tusq works very well on my SG, which was horrible with the stock nut

It seems pretty easy to just carefully knock out the nut, and replace it with http://www.graphtech.com/products/brand ... c39b4f0382, but you guys here are like walking encyclopedias

I recommend taking it your local music store and have the tech look at the nut. Then the tech can make some recommendations, such as expand the nut slots on the strings that bind or replace the nut. You might also
ask the tech about the low E string, too.

Just my $0.02.

[SunMaster]

Update: I've applied a lot of 'graphit all' on the nut, and now it's very nice

Not sure if I'm going to bother having the nut fixed. At least there's no rush.

[Craig]

Update: I've applied a lot of 'graphit all' on the nut, and now it's very nice

Not sure if I'm going to bother having the nut fixed. At least there's no rush.

Great to hear!

Enjoy.

[DugT]

I prefer teflon tape to graphite because teflon tape is the lowest friction material know to man and it is a clean film rather than a toxic powder. It is also cheap and easy to apply to the nut. I use a layer on the nut and a layer between strings and string trees. It makes tuning so much easier with immediate response when you turn a tuning peg and the strings always return to tuned when I use the trem bar. The teflon tape guitarists use is the same cheap stuff used on sprinklers. Every hardware store has it.

[FZTNT]

Most interesting using the teflon tape. Can you please post pictures of how you do this.

Tom

[DugT]

Most interesting using the teflon tape. Can you please post pictures of how you do this.

Tom

A few months ago I googled "guitar nut lube" and got several hits about using teflon tape but today I'm not seeing much about it. Here is a site with some photos. http://www.rauenguitars.com/pages/teflon_tape.html

It is real easy to use. You can just loosen one string pulll it out of the nut slot, put a layer of tape in the slot and then put the string back. I use a razer blade or an exacto knife to remove the excess tape.

[Lacking Talent]

Wow. You really do learn something new every day.