The place to discuss, post photos, video, and audio of the G&L products (US instruments, stomp boxes, etc.) produced after 1991, including the amps & gear we use with them.
but this guitar perhaps made about 2000/2001 years
what are the characteristics of legacy special?
the pick up i think are seymour duncam ,but seymour duncan script and logo is written only in HB.
there are only 2 poy.
1 for volume and 1 for tone.
the pick guard i think is original pickguard but the old owner cut them to put in HB.
pickguard not are in italy,only solution is buy them to american ebay (ebay.com)
No, what you have is a Legacy HB with a Seymour Duncan TB-4 in the bridge. This is an ordinary production model, see this link. The custom aspect more than likely is the red metal flake finish.
As for the Legacy Special, they have humbuckers in all 3 positions, but these pickups are of the Power Blade type. Beyond that, my '97 Legacy Special has that exact string on the headstock:
- Jos
Edit: fix image link after album was lost.
Last edited by yowhatsshakin on Sun Dec 18, 2011 10:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I don't know that this guitar has all original parts. It is definitely a Legacy, but I noticed that the pickguard only has 2 knobs; I don't think any production Legacy has only 2 knobs.
When Tim stated it is a special order, what he means is that someone order this Legacy with his choices of maybe color, neck wood, etc., but it is still a regular Legacy. Seeing that the pickups are not G&L pickups, it is possible that a previous owner had replaced the whole pickguard assembly.
the legacy hb have a 3 pot,1 fpr volume,1 for tone and 1 for PTB system,and in the link i have see 1 "switch" near second knob-pot.
i thing this guitar originaly a normal legacy but old owners have change pick up pick guar ecc ecc..
can i try to ask g&l ,whit serial number they know the exact model?
Your bridge looks a little angled to me (albeit I have never used the bridge) you may need to tighten the spring claw in the rear cavity, and adjust the 2 studs on the top to make it level and to 'spec height' (3/16"?) It looks like the saddles were heavily raised to compensate for the position of the bridge plate, which should be closer to parallel (probably completely parallel for best results, as par most floating trems).
The G&L setup instructions specify setting the bottom of the 6th string saddle 1/8" off the plate as a starting point. That creates an angle of the saddle about as shown in the picture. The bridge plate itself does look to be angled too much, and tightening the springs should bring it down to parallel.
i set the bridge as written in the manual i have set the rear spring (3) and now metal plate on the rear is near the wood,because i have tightened the 2 screws.,but all sadde are raised and i want to ajust it.
in the manual as written 1.8'' on 6string and 0' on 1string..like climb...
but i have a problem ,with the saddle rised ,the srting when i play on 12th freet are too "buzz buzz" .the string whip on the keyboard.
i think i must set trous road after i set a saddle
i set the bridge as written in the manual i have set the rear spring (3) and now metal plate on the rear is near the wood,because i have tightened the 2 screws.,but all sadde are raised and i want to ajust it.
in the manual as written 1.8'' on 6string and 0' on 1string..like climb...
but i have a problem ,with the saddle rised ,the srting when i play on 12th freet are too "buzz buzz" .the string whip on the keyboard.
i think i must set trous road after i set a saddle
The manual shows 1/8" for the low E string, and the picture shows the saddles getting progressively lower towards the high E but there is no specification for any of the saddle heights but the low E. I have only three-bolt necks with the tilt adjustment and for those you are supposed to adjust the neck angle to get close to the right action with the 1/8" low E string height, and then fine tune each string height from there. I don't think it will ever be correct to have "zero" saddle height even for the high E string. You need to have some room for adjustment. I don't know if you are supposed to shim the four bolt necks to the right angle or how you are supposed to set up that part of the guitar. The truss rod adjustment should be done really carefully, it isn't there to adjust the action, rather to make sure the neck has just the right amount of bow.
