New Legacy needs neck shim

[jhgreene64]

Hi guys. I have a quick question about shimming the neck of my brand new Legacy USA. It arrived with the trem posts in the lowest position and both E string blocks bottomed out. With .01 relief action is 3.5/64ths on the high E and 4.5/64ths on the low side. While this action is acceptable, it is discouraging to pay $1000 for a new guitar that requires bottoming out to achieve a suitable action. I dont want to return the guitar or send it back to G&L; I really love this guitar and am selling my others to make this my one and only. My question is this; what is the proper procedure for shimming the neck to give 1mm or so more adjustment at the bridge? PS Please dont respond with basic setup advice, I am well versed in basic setup. thanks

[darwinohm]

JH, i have shimmed several, in fact my new ASAT Special required shims to get the low action that I like. I buy brass shimstock at the local hardware store in .005 , .015 and .030 thickness. I cut a piece to perfectly fit the neck pocket between the inner 2 neck screws and the inside edge of the pocket. When I cut them, I file the edges so they do not have burrs. I would put .025 or or .030 of shims in and take it from there. I do not like to have the saddles on the plate and like a minimum of .050 between the E saddles and the plate. I also do not like the DF pivot bolt bottomed out. I would set the DF plate to factory spec and shim the neck and adjust the saddles from there. It would be better if you didn't have to mess with it but the guitar will be sweet when you are done. Make sure that you set you neck relief before you take the neck off. I have been setting mine at .004 to .005 and find no buzz with the high E at .045 to .050 and I set the low E at .060. The low E will buzz if you set it much lower than that.. Hope this helps.-- Darwin

[jhgreene64]

Tnks Darwin. I just wanted to be sure that there was nothing unique about the shimming process as it applies to G&L. Im going to home depot tomorrow to look for suitable shim material. Im also glad to know that this problem is not unique i.e. that I might have a lemon. Im really happy with the tone of this thing. The guitar is a ssh model and the neck pu sounds suprisingly beautiful. It is the first guitar Ive ever owwned that I didnt want to change in some way!With the hum in the bridge I can cover just about any style,

[darwinohm]

JH, I think that you know what you are doing and when you are done, it will be fantastic. Most people do not have the action as low as I like but, if they play well with a low action, they are a great guitar. I always consider that these are set up for the average buyer. Some of us like them different. The most recent necks that I have had from G&L are perfect. Having said that the quality continues to improve. I wish they would do a micro tilt again. A very low cost production change for a big bang for some of us, but that is business. I wish they would have put the money into the micro tilt instead of the new serial number plate.-- But, life is still good!!!!!-- Darwin

[Craig]

I would be interested in knowing if the guitar was setup per the factory specs. See Current Factory setups for DF vibrato G&L guitars
for the current setup. If it is not, please post the settings as you received it. Also, let me know if the dealer had done a setup
after receiving it from the factory and if so, who that dealer is.

Thanks,

[jhgreene64]

Thanks for responding Craig. I purchased the guitar via the web from Adoriondack guitars. Serial #CLF58496. I actually ordered a baby blue hss legacy with a pearloid pickgaurd; what I got was a sort of pastel blue with a plain white pickgaurd. This leads me to believe that he never looked at the guitar, so Im sure he didnt set it up. It arrived with both E string blocks bottomed out and the truss rod was slack. After adjusting for .01 relief the strings are at a playable height, I just hate the fact that the bridge posts and string blocks had to be bottomed out to get there. I need to know what shim thickness will give me 1mm or so more adjustment at the bridge. Also, given the setup issue and the fact that the dealer sent me a different guitar, can you verify that the serial number is valid and matches the guitar? Given the things going on with the chinese knock offs, I would sleep better knowing for sure. Thanks for your help.

[desertrat07]

Out of curisosity, how high is the bridge from the body? Is there no room to adjust slightly downward to, say, 2/16?

[jhgreene64]

No, it is bottomed out.

[sirmyghin]

I shimmed my 2010 ASAT special to get it right where I want it. I am meticulous when it comes to a setup, it was good without the shim, just not perfect. The feel changes with the angle of strings over the saddles.

[desertrat07]

No, it is bottomed out.

Wow. I'd be really surprised if it came from the factory that way. Seems that would prevent the DF bridge from functioning properly. Sucks you're having issues, but I'm sure the guitar will be sweet once you get it all ironed out.

[Craig]

Thanks for responding Craig. I purchased the guitar via the web from Adoriondack guitars. Serial #CLF58496. I actually ordered a baby blue hss legacy with a pearloid pickgaurd; what I got was a sort of pastel blue with a plain white pickgaurd. This leads me to believe that he never looked at the guitar, so Im sure he didnt set it up. It arrived with both E string blocks bottomed out and the truss rod was slack. After adjusting for .01 relief the strings are at a playable height, I just hate the fact that the bridge posts and string blocks had to be bottomed out to get there. I need to know what shim thickness will give me 1mm or so more adjustment at the bridge. Also, given the setup issue and the fact that the dealer sent me a different guitar, can you verify that the serial number is valid and matches the guitar? Given the things going on with the chinese knock offs, I would sleep better knowing for sure. Thanks for your help.

Adoriondack Guitars is an authorized G&L dealer, so you can be assured that they sold you an authentic G&L instrument.
If they sent you the wrong guitar, why have you not contacted them to get the guitar you ordered and paid for? Was this
a custom order or did you see the guitar on the dealer's website? The serial number indicates that the guitar was probably
made in 2010, so it could have been a dealer in stock item. Your description of the body color could be Baby Blue (which was
discontinued last year) or it could be Himalayan Blue. Did you use the G&L website USA Finishes page as your reference?
You need to make the call to the dealer about the shipment of the wrong guitar.

Regarding the setup issue you describe, I had asked if you could check the setup measurements and provided a post which
has the current setup used by the factory and then let me know the actual measurements it has. You have not provided this
information. You have since indicated that the bridge is resting on the body (or nearly so) and that the truss rod was slack.
I cannot believe that it left the factory like this. Instruments are setup to factory specs and tested prior to being put into
their case and shipping boxes. The bridge plate should be parallel with the body and be at 4/32" (2/16") above the body.

There is nothing I can do from here other than to provide this advise. And my advise it to contact the dealer and work with them
to get the correct guitar you ordered and insure that the setup is to factory specs when shipped to you. Please see
the G&L Support page for details on warranty servicing. I am quite certain that the dealer and G&L will do the right things
to get this resolved in a timely matter, but you do have to make that call to the dealer.

Hope this helps.

[jhgreene64]

Wow... I did not say the bridge was resting against the body, I said the bridge posts were bottomed out. I also did not say I was displeased with the guitar I recieved, I simply stated it was not the guitar pictured on the Adoriondack website that I ordered. The guitar is in fact him blue, not baby blue. Finally, the bridge IS the proper height (1/8) and is parallel to the body, and the bridge posts are as low as they go. It is set up correctly, and the setup WAS exactly the way I descibed from the factory. Contacting the dealer who is roughly 1000 miles away seems idiotic since the guitar only needs a neck shim , which is what I asked you about in the first place. Your implication that the guitar is not set up correctly rather than addressing the issue tells me ALOT about you and your company. I only want to know what thickness the shim should be in order to give 1mm or so more adjustment at the bridge. You should probably read the whole thread before passing the buck. Ther are a couple of people who have responded to this thread who had the same problem.

[Craig]

Wow... I did not say the bridge was resting against the body, I said the bridge posts were bottomed out. I also did not say I was displeased with the guitar I recieved, I simply stated it was not the guitar pictured on the Adoriondack website that I ordered. The guitar is in fact him blue, not baby blue. Finally, the bridge IS the proper height (1/8) and is parallel to the body, and the bridge posts are as low as they go. It is set up correctly, and the setup WAS exactly the way I descibed from the factory. Contacting the dealer who is roughly 1000 miles away seems idiotic since the guitar only needs a neck shim , which is what I asked you about in the first place. Your implication that the guitar is not set up correctly rather than addressing the issue tells me ALOT about you and your company. I only want to know what thickness the shim should be in order to give 1mm or so more adjustment at the bridge. You should probably read the whole thread before passing the buck. Ther are a couple of people who have responded to this thread who had the same problem.

Sorry, but that was my interpretation to your response to desertrat07's post asking "how high is the bridge from the body?" and your reply of "it is bottomed out". Thus I thought you were referring to the bridge plate. My mistaken interpretation.

Just so you know, I am not an employee of G&L or BBE, just a long time G&L enthusiast and friend of David McLaren. I am trying to help you and now that you confirmed that the setup is per factory spec, I can inquire with the factory about your request for what thickness shim should be, in order to give 1mm or so more adjustment at the bridge.

Stay tuned.

Hope this helps.

[desertrat07]

Sorry, but that was my interpretation to your response to desertrat07's post asking "how high is the bridge from the body?" and your reply of "it is bottomed out". Thus I thought you were referring to the bridge plate. My mistaken interpretation.

I thought the same thing. But hey, we're all just trying to help each other out.

jhgreene: It would be great if you could post a few pics of the shim when you get that going and let us know what thickness you used to get that 1mm you're looking for, it might be of help to somone else. Also, would love to see the new git. I've been jonesing for a Legacy HB myself!

[sirmyghin]

I only want to know what thickness the shim should be in order to give 1mm or so more adjustment at the bridge. You should probably read the whole thread before passing the buck. Ther are a couple of people who have responded to this thread who had the same problem.

Shims are a bit of a trial and error thing. A few pieces of paper thick is enough to give you a degree or so of neck tilt, which translates to a fair degree of movement at the nut. You aren't going to be using something like an actual cedar shim typically. Cut a business card into strips, add 2-3 pieces at the heel if you want the bridge to go up (and the neck to fall, when placing the guitar flat) or at the edge if you want the nut to rise, and the bridge to go down, that one is pretty uncommon though. Then set it up and see how it works. If it isn't enough, add another piece or two, rinse, repeat.

[jhgreene64]

I was hoping to avoid experimentation by knowing the correct math. The thought of removing and reattaching the neck numerous times makes me queasy.
I would also like to clarify my experience with Adoriondack. The guy that owns it is really pleasant and stocks what is probably the largest selection of lefties around. He is an internet guy and probably just saw blue/hss/lefty on the box and shipped it. I dont really have a problem with him, or the guitar which I love. I have no doubt he would be willing to exchange for the correct guitar if I asked him.
As to the factory setup, I understand how a new neck could be strung, tuned, and put in a case for a year or so only to settle in and compress- thus the slack truss rod. I also dont expect an internet dealer to do a setup for me.
The ONLY issue I have is with the neck/body angle leaving G&L in the state I have described.

[sirmyghin]

I was hoping to avoid experimentation by knowing the correct math. The thought of removing and reattaching the neck numerous times makes me queasy.
I would also like to clarify my experience with Adoriondack. The guy that owns it is really pleasant and stocks what is probably the largest selection of lefties around. He is an internet guy and probably just saw blue/hss/lefty on the box and shipped it. I dont really have a problem with him, or the guitar which I love. I have no doubt he would be willing to exchange for the correct guitar if I asked him.
As to the factory setup, I understand how a new neck could be strung, tuned, and put in a case for a year or so only to settle in and compress- thus the slack truss rod. I also dont expect an internet dealer to do a setup for me.
The ONLY issue I have is with the neck/body angle leaving G&L in the state I have described.

There is no 'correct math' for that sort of thing, although I am sure you can figure out how thick you want a shim to be for a particular gradient causing the nut to fall X amount which would raise the bridge by 3/16ths if you really wanted to. If you aren't comfortable removing a neck however, you probably shouldn't do the work yourself.

No guarantee it left that factory like that if it was in a 'store' of any sort, possible yes, but it could have happened at any point on the way to you otherwise also.

[jhgreene64]

It seems highly unlikely that the Adoriondack guy would sabotage his own product.

[sirmyghin]

It seems highly unlikely that the Adoriondack guy would sabotage his own product.

Too many folks don't have a clue how to set up a guitar, store owner, employee, or not. Hell I have had places change my string guage from what was on the shelf, and then not intonate it.

[Miles Smiles]

Last time I needed a shim, I took the piece of an old credit card. Should work in this case too, in terms of having the right effect.

[johnnyqb]

it doesn't make sense that a brand new Legacy would need a shim. A Legacy should come perfect from the dealer. The brand new ones are so carefully checked, that something just doesn't seem right here....

[Craig]

it doesn't make sense that a brand new Legacy would need a shim. A Legacy should come perfect from the dealer. The brand new ones are so carefully checked, that something just doesn't seem right here....

Perfect for most, but some players like the action lower than the factory setup.
And in their case, need a neck shim to achieve the setting they want.