The best fret board oil is...

The best finger board oil is... quite a controversial subject. Not sure why I have the opinions I do about certain oils over others so I thought I would do some research. Except for the violinists, which are more interested in artistic technique than anything else and don't have the same concerns eg.. inlays, fret slots etc. in their ebony boards, I've found fret board maintenance to be the number two subject viewed second only to the photo galleries on the many forums I've visited. No help there, they're also confused so I started from the beginning. The cellulose matrix of the ebony's, specific gravities, absorption rates and yes it got old real fast so I went for the manufactures info. Seems without an MSDS sheet you only have a vague idea of whats in it. There has to be a hundred manufacturers offering some kind of treatment. I've read everything from magnesium oil from the ancient Zechstein sea to the Smithsonian's take on the preservation of stringed instruments (they use Williamsville wax by the way). The claims by manufactures are rather diverse. They say theirs will moisten, lubricate, have better capillary action for deeper penetration (not to be confused with absorption), prevents warping, cracking, prevents that waxy gummy feel, will remove sweat, beer and vomit spatter from that drunk guy leaning on the side of the stage all while maintaining the character and original luster of your guitar and as a bonus, leaves your Axe with a fresh lemony fragrance.
Some examples are Kyser lemon oil which promises to clean, polish, protect, and preserve with no waxes or synthetics. Dr. Ducks Axe Wax is an organic highly refined cleaning moisturizing, polishing formula that prevents fret oxidation (which contains petroleum distillates but no wax. Dunlops fretboard 65 ultimate lemon oil with their Dab-O-Matic applicator top and logical evolution of the 01 fingerboard cleaner. Lizard Spit Fretboard conditioner (made with real oranges) and their patented MP01 Spit Shine Polish (to be applied with the MP04 12"x12" lint free polish cloth-sold separately) and lets not forget about their state of the art trigger atomizer that prevents waste and over spray. Dean Markley Love Potion Number 15 fretboard saver and conditioner (while supplies last). Planet Waves Fingerboard Conditioner Hydrate claims the Ultimate treatment and uses a unique formula of oils and cleaners that leaves a clean, fast, and glowing surface. Dr. String Fellow Lem Oil does it with natural oils and moisturizes too. The list goes on and on. The luthiurs I spoke with said none of the treatments will emulsify the adhesives used by the major manufacturers and If a dot inlay or fretboard comes loose, it was a bad glue job to begin with. The majority of neck or fret board problems are caused from extreme temperature and humidity changes. And while I don't have a climate controlled closet, I am cautious about the temperature changes whenever possible and try to treat my fret boards every six months or so. As far as to mineral oil or not to mineral oil, it just doesn't seem to make a difference. While some oils on the market may subjectively work better than others, they all appear to do a fine job treating ebony fret boards. The horror stories of some treatment ruining someones guitar are almost non existent. I've had good luck with all treatments I've used in the past and currently use Fret Doctor but I'm thinking about changing brands for no better reason than Lizard Spit sounds the coolest.

Great info!
(...wonders if the lizards are fed anything special?)

Thanks

I must confess to being a Dr. Ducks fan... although I have had one problem with it. I've seen it remove the gold lettering/paint on a set of strat knobs once... so I keep it well away from all decals & lettering etc. (for fretboards, its fantastic)

I like the Gerlitz Guitar Honey; and the Dunlop 65 Fretboard Cleaner and the 65 Conditioner products.

Fret Doctor is supposed to be very good. Supposedly it is Bore Oil. I have never used it.

I used real lemon oil for years and it workd very well, but have not found one I really like during the last 15 years. The company that made the product I liked went out of business.

And when your fingerboards are dirty, a damp cloth will take off 99% of the gun that collects on a fingerboard. Just buff it dry. It's about all you need to do on a maple board, unless you want to prolong the life of your NCL finished board buy applying carnauba wax.

I think that maintaining proper relative humidity of 45% to 55% is even more important than the fingerboard conditioner.

Bill

Your right about the relative humidity. It can have the most detrimental affect of all the variables. Unlike the finish on a guitar body, where temperature extremes alone can be disastrous, the neck and fingerboard can withstand temperature changes with little or no damage given the relative humidity stays unchanged. Hard to do unless the guitar remains in one place all of it's life. The fret board oil allows the ebony (which typically is a much denser material than the neck it's glued to) to move with the neck and resist cracking during expansion and contraction due to climatic changes. Winter is the worst. The lower temperatures of winter won't maintain the humidity like the summer months will, and with the furnaces running, it's hard on some necks. Treating your fret board twice a year, say during the fall and spring will definitely help your guitar endure the elements.