Cant lower the bridge enough?

I'm trying to setup my Tribute Legacy, there are two problems with it:
1. action is too high
2. frets are rough and ends are sharp

I'm a noob, so forgive me. I held off asking until now because my googling turned up the owner's manual ad some comments that the tribute should match the settings here: http://www.guitarsbyleo.com/GALLERY2/ma ... emId=10432

and here is my problem. I can't get my low E string even close to the spec.

it shows there should be 0.062" under the #1 and #6 strings. Step 8c seems to show you get this by adjusting the bridge down. At first I thought they mean the whole bridge (with the two big hex head screws) but turning that quickly stopped.

I think I'm monkeying the terminology here: by bridge does the manual mean mean saddle? As in adjust the two tiny hex head screws where the strings come through?

so currently, my low E is closer to .080 than .062, and even with the saddle (bridge #6) bottomed out it rattles like crazy

Yup, at step 8c the manual means the saddle. When you say that it rattles like crazy, are you referring to fret buzz, or does the saddle rattle?

Funnily enough, I'm in the same boat with my Tribute Comanche. With the bridge plate set at the stock height (2/16" off the body) I can't get the low E string any lower than 6/64" (measured at the 12th fret), even with the saddle decked.

The owners manual is a little old, there are a couple of things that don't work for current guitars. The recommended bridge plate height for most current guitars is 2/16" rather than 3/16". Also, in a guitar without micro-tilt there's no way to have 1/8" between the bridge plate and the bottom of the saddle and a string height of 0.062" under low E at the 12th fret without shimming the neck.

I'm trying to setup my Tribute Legacy, there are two problems with it:
1. action is too high
2. frets are rough and ends are sharp

I'm a noob, so forgive me. I held off asking until now because my googling turned up the owner's manual ad some comments that the tribute should match the settings here: http://www.guitarsbyleo.com/GALLERY2/ma ... emId=10432

and here is my problem. I can't get my low E string even close to the spec.

it shows there should be 0.062" under the #1 and #6 strings. Step 8c seems to show you get this by adjusting the bridge down. At first I thought they mean the whole bridge (with the two big hex head screws) but turning that quickly stopped.

I think I'm monkeying the terminology here: by bridge does the manual mean mean saddle? As in adjust the two tiny hex head screws where the strings come through?

so currently, my low E is closer to .080 than .062, and even with the saddle (bridge #6) bottomed out it rattles like crazy

In that Gallery album you reference, the first page of the album says:

Owner's Manual, Version 2
The truss rod and action adjustment on Pages 7 and 9 have been updated in this version. The information contained herein is applicable to just about all G&Ls (before 2008 or so). Note for SC-2 (2008 and up), continue to use the setup in this manual.
Specifications do change from time to time, so check the G&L Forum (aka G&LDP) for updates as they become available to us.

So you need to take a look at the Current Factory setups for DF vibrato G&L guitars post in this sub-forum,
because it applies to your 2013 Tribute. Use this post and substitute the settings referenced in the Owner's Manual, Version 2 and you should be able to get the setup to factory specs.
Because you have only had this guitar for about a month, you might want to take it back to your G&L dealer and have them do the setup for you.
Also show them the fret sprout (sharp ends) and they should be able to knock down the fret ends for you.

Hope this helps.

take it to a tech. ask them too let you watch how to set up a guitar. it also sounds like you need the frets leveled, dressed and polished.

Thanks all for your help.

I think I have it setup pretty well now. The nomenclature (bridge == saddle) had me perplexed.

I've had a very good luthier let me watch the setup on my other guitar. And I wanted to try it on this one. I don't think there are any high frets or real problems, never had any buzzing. My only complaints were the the 'sprout' and high action. The frets did feel a bit rough when bending - like the surfaces werent smooth.

Once I understood the DF vibrato and action bit I removed all the strings then taped it off and I hit the fret ends with a mill file that I smoothed one side off of so it didn't mangle the fingerboard. Sprout problem is no more. Then I lightly sanded with 1000 grit and followed with steel wool and then nevr-dull. Ripped off the tape, then I conditioned the board with some oil and let it soak for 30 minutes.

I just strung it up and it plays like butter.

I'm not saying its as good as a real luthier could do, but its better and I'm learning as I go. Next round I may be even more aggressive on the fret ends, but its easier to remove more metal later than add it back on

Good job!
It is so satisfying soaring with a G&L that you have set up , polished... yourself.
It just keeps getting better as you pay attention to the finer points of the set up and know how to tweek it to your delight .

I use Flitz on a cotton covered stick (popsicle or similar) to polish my frets (a little goes a long way),
and a light spritz of Fingerease
(or maybe virtuoso polish) to put a little coat of something over the top that slows the metal from oxidizing and adds to the buttery feel of the fretboard.

I've heard VO5 works to keep freshly polished brass from oxidizing too quickly...haven't tried that one yet.

cheers,
elwood

Thanks for the encouragement.

My legacy has a satin finish on the neck, will the fingerease mess it up? I have a friend who swore by some kind of string + neck stuff, might have been fingerease. What does it actually do to the strings? Make them slippery or something?

I love the feel of the neck already, so I don't want to risk monkeying it up. In fact, on my LP I took a green scotch-brite pad to the neck to get a satin-like finish before I even had my G&L. Now the g&L neck is so sweet I never want to put it down.

I should also mention, just to be fair to the fine folks at G&L, that I'm not sure it was fret sprout.

I think it was more a matter of my personal taste. I understand 'sprout' is when the frets emerge from the fingerboard.

I was attacking mostly the bottom corner and the bevel of the frets to make them less pronounced.

Also, Craig, I still don't see the reference in that manual to checking anywhere else?? Am I looking at the wrong manual?

Also, Craig, I still don't see the reference in that manual to checking anywhere else?? Am I looking at the wrong manual?

What I quoted is in the Gallery Album page which has the Manual pages. Click on this link to see it: Album: Owner's Manual, Version 2.

G&L stopped shipping these Manuals with their instruments when they changed to the 4-bolt guitar neck. The setup procedure is still the same
today (except, of course, for the micro-tilt adjustment) but some of the settings have changed and could change in the future. So, when you get
a new G&L instrument, it's a good idea to check this sub-forum for the current setup.

Hope this helps.

Also, Craig, I still don't see the reference in that manual to checking anywhere else?? Am I looking at the wrong manual?

What I quoted is in the Gallery Album page which has the Manual pages. Click on this link to see it: Album: Owner's Manual, Version 2.

G&L stopped shipping these Manuals with their instruments when they changed to the 4-bolt guitar neck. The setup procedure is still the same
today (except, of course, for the micro-tilt adjustment) but some of the settings have changed and could change in the future. So, when you get
a new G&L instrument, it's a good idea to check this sub-forum for the current setup.

Hope this helps.

Helps tremendously, thanks very much. I have updated my 'owners manual' bookmark to be the thumbnailed page - thanks!

very friendly community here on G&LDP - it is appreciated

I have a friend who swore by some kind of string + neck stuff, might have been fingerease. What does it actually do to the strings? Make them slippery or something?

I bet it was fingerease, a little on the strings and it is supposed to add a little silicone to fingertip skin...
so yes it help kill that friction that arises at times. I put a little on a cloth and apply it to the strings.
Again ...the tiniest amount goes a long way. But it sounds like you've acheived the good frictionless feel without , so all's good.
I guess I just wanted to hear myself type

rock and roll !!
elwood

i'll try some on a cloth when these strings near the end of their life.

What I'm working on now is recoving the radius of the saddles. I lowered the action a little but managed to flatten the saddles so the strings don't quite follow the fretboard radius.

i'm thinking that making a circle (r=12") on some cardboard and cutting that out should give me a reasonable guide. Any better tips?

remember that measuring from the top is not quite the same radius as measuring from the bottom. you have the take into consideration the way the string thickness effects the outside radius. a little math and you'll be able to do it.

You can download printable radius gauges at pickguardian, too: http://www.pickguardian.com/pickguardian/images/pickguardian%20neck%20radius%20gauges.pdf

I made myself an understring radius gauge by printing these out, drawing a "handle" on the top of the radius I wanted, gluing the whole thing to a piece of plastic and then cutting out the shape with a hobby knife

gp louis. I seem to remmeber getting a book from the libray by Dan Erlewine that had radius guides in it.

I saw something on stewmac once also: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Measu ... auges.html

but I'm not paying $30.00 for them...

thanks for the link patricks. That saves me a couple steps.