3-Way Selector for U.S. Doheny

Alas, alack: my lovely 2017 CLF Doheny has its first real ding: the 3-way selector took a hit, and snapped at the shaft. I can still switch the switch, but I can't abide looking at that stub.

I don't see the black-tipped 3-way switch on the glguitars store; does anyone know the correct replacement? I get the part, I can solder it in just fine. I emailed G&L but I don't know the hours they keep in These Uncertain Times and don't know what kind of wait to expect, and to be frank having my baby busted is eating me alive to some indeterminate degree.

Alas, alack: my lovely 2017 CLF Doheny has its first real ding: the 3-way selector took a hit, and snapped at the shaft. I can still switch the switch, but I can't abide looking at that stub.

I don't see the black-tipped 3-way switch on the glguitars store; does anyone know the correct replacement? I get the part, I can solder it in just fine. I emailed G&L but I don't know the hours they keep in These Uncertain Times and don't know what kind of wait to expect, and to be frank having my baby busted is eating me alive to some indeterminate degree.

My suggestion is to contact G&L Tech Support. If you don't hear back from Memo by
Friday, try contacting one of the Premier G&L dealers, to see if they can get the proper switch for you.

Please keep us informed about your search for the proper switch and where you get it from.

I'll give that a go, thanks.

Well the good news is G&L are being predictably stand up and sent me a new switch. Hooray!

Not the same switch, though. The original switch (which has a broken shaft) has six solder points with wires on. The one from G&L appears to have five unless I'm missing something.



I've emailed but it's too soon to hear back from them.

Is it a matter of "this is the incorrect switch and James needs to ask G&L for the right one"?
Or is it a matter of "this switch is fine and James needs to be told which bits get soldered where"?

I'd like not to have to drastically rewire the instrument; I was hoping it would be a one-to-one job.

Guys, G&L sent a diagram for wiring the new (unwired) switch but it isn't making sense to me.



Does anyone have a picture of this type of switch properly wired, in color, so I can tell where yellow, red, white and black go? I'm getting pretty frustrated. I can't find anything online that seems relevant.

AND nevermind, between hunting around the internet for clues and some mildly harrowing trial and error, I got the switch in there and doing what it's s'posedta.

Full credit to Memo at G&L for hitting me up with the part and schematic, full blame to me for being a highly strung and impatient novice when it comes to guitar guts.

Time will tell if all my solder joints are good. I'm mostly just happy I didn't have to change anything else, and didn't screw anything else up.

AND nevermind, between hunting around the internet for clues and some mildly harrowing trial and error, I got the switch in there and doing what it's s'posedta.

Full credit to Memo at G&L for hitting me up with the part and schematic, full blame to me for being a highly strung and impatient novice when it comes to guitar guts.

Time will tell if all my solder joints are good. I'm mostly just happy I didn't have to change anything else, and didn't screw anything else up.

Good to hear!
I have been trying to get schematics for the new models from the factory for a long time. Would you be willing to post the Doheny schematic here?
I can then add it to the Gallery's Schematics and Wiring Diagrams Album.

Unfortunately, it's not a full schematic for the Doheny but just a wiring diagram for the new 3-way switch. It was a little opaque for me until I looked around online to find G&L's conventions for pickup lead colors. Once I understood what was hot, what was ground, and what was output, then it was a matter of soldering.

Healing up from a fractured triquetrum in my right wrist and a sprain (or something?) in my left made the job WAY harder than it should have been, and WAY uglier. Got it done, but one of these days after my hands heal up I'm going to want to go in there again and re-do my soldering neatly.