Hi everyone-
Just a quick update on my end, primarily to give out some trial by error information just in case anyone else has a similar problem and can't find an answer. (btw the guitar is fine if you don't feel like reading)
Firstly, I have to commend G&L on the quick responses. I really appreciate that customer service and they're truly doing things right over there.
That being said, if you have a vintage G&L and are thinking about buying their replacement truss rod nut/washer set, do not be a moron like me and just assume that it will fit. Measure the diameter of the truss rod cavity and make sure there is enough clearance for their washers...they did not just drop in on mine...like at all... and I paid the price of a near panic attack for being naive.
The advice given to me by G&L was essentially take it to a guitar tech and have them widen the truss rod cavity. Not to sound smug or anything, but I have a fair amount of experience building and fixing guitars, regardless of my stupid mistake to not measure the washer, I think this is a little bit of an extreme option. I certainly could widen the truss rod cavity myself, but it's a bit absurd and unnecessary in my book to bore out wood from the truss rod cavity so that a silly brash washer will fit. Again, I repeat, measure the diameter of your truss rod cavity...If it has expanded over time, like mine had, go get a couple of brass washers that will fit the truss rod and then have the outer diameter filed to custom fit your specific G&L baby. There's no reason to remove wood over a washer. This little tidbit of probably captain obvious advice doesn't apply to a broken truss rod or stripped nut - of course.
Now for the good news-
I ordered some cheap dental equipment to get the washer out, but I realized there was really no way I'd be able to (seriously it was very snug
) Since the two main options were widen the truss rod cavity or buy a new neck, I figured I had nothing to lose and took the nuclear option. I took one of my thin allen wrenches and gently tapped on the edges of the washer with a hammer - success! I was able to push it down a bit further. It was relatively level at this point and far enough down in the cavity that I figured screw it (pun intended)
I took the nuclear option and slowly tightened the replacement nut back onto the truss rod over the course of a week. By about day 3, I noticed the relief going down slightly and the nut was still moving smoothly. By about day 5, the relief was around 0.02"...I like my boards dead straight, but I figured I'd rather have high action than a broken neck...as a last hail mary, I gave the nut a strong 1/2 turn...It's tight and I have made myself swear to stop touching it at this point and just accept wherever it's at after it settles.
WELL- sometimes being an idiot pays off...or you just get lucky. The relief is now between 0.02" and 0.01" and the SC-2 is playing like an absolute dream and sounds like a cowboy on speed. I am totally in love and am so happy that I somehow was able to pull this off without a scratch, ding, crack, or snap.
Don't be like me - measure and be careful, don't be hasty. That being said, these guitars are absolute tanks and maple is a very strong wood, i.e. don't treat it like it's made of stone but also don't act like your guitar is made of balsa wood either. Measure, measure, measure but also don't be afraid to give it some tough lovin' if you have to.
Thanks for all of the replies in my time of need and I'm sure you'll all be happy to read that the sc-2 is safe and sound and being well loved. Absolute rock and roll machine and I've been on a recording warpath since I got it setup comfortably.
Now I have to just stop myself from buying more! (someone tell me that I don't need an sc-1...because I'm struggling lol)