1983 Nighthawk Nut Replacement

So I have this Nighthawk that the previous owner preferred to use heavy strings on. The nut slots put the strings right on top of the first fret. I prefer 9 - 42s or 48s. I want to replace the nut and wonder what I should go with. The Graphtech TUSQ XL seem like a good way to go but:

Should I leave it plastic as was original?

What is the radius of this neck? Can't find neck options for 1993 Nighthawks. I know it's supposed to be 1 5/8s inch width but need radius to figure what nut to buy.

Anybody have luck with pre cut string slots?

Also, any pros or cons between TUSQ, plastic or bone?

Any help would be most appreciated, Thanks,

Tom

What is the radius of this neck? Can't find neck options for 1993 Nighthawks. I know it's supposed to be 1 5/8s inch width but need radius to figure what nut to buy.

Tom

Here's the back of the 1983 Nighthawk Ad Slick from our Gallery:


Hope this helps.

Wonderful. Thanks Craig, I thought it was 7 1/2 but wasn't sure.

Are there spec sheets for most Leo era guitars in the gallery? I didn't think to look in the gallery and I am not good at searching the forum. I rarely get anywhere near what I am searching for.

I assume that merely replacing the nut does not devalue the guitar, what are your thoughts on that? It's pretty rare that you get a used guitar that can be setup just how you want it without replacing little things like a nut. I think the specs for the original 9 - 42 strings is .016 off the first fret and this thing is .008 at best.

Thanks again,

Tom

Wonderful. Thanks Craig, I thought it was 7 1/2 but wasn't sure.

Are there spec sheets for most Leo era guitars in the gallery? I didn't think to look in the gallery and I am not good at searching the forum. I rarely get anywhere near what I am searching for.

I assume that merely replacing the nut does not devalue the guitar, what are your thoughts on that? It's pretty rare that you get a used guitar that can be setup just how you want it without replacing little things like a nut. I think the specs for the original 9 - 42 strings is .016 off the first fret and this thing is .008 at best.

Thanks again,

Tom

Look at the Gallery Album: Ad Slicks and Memorabilia.
We have many Ad Slicks and Catalogs but likely not all of them.

Tom,
I am a firm believer that something that is rare should be kept in as close to original condition as possible in order for it to retain it's value. As they say, "things are only original once". Leo era guitars fall into this category. Things like soldier joints and screws should not be messed with unless there is an issue. Necks should not be removed. If you want your Leo era guitar to be like Leo intended then put away the tools.

As far as replacing the nut goes, heck yes! Get that thing out of there and fit it with something that looks as close to original as possible.

Nighthawks are so nice!

y2kc

Tom,
I am a firm believer that something that is rare should be kept in as close to original condition as possible in order for it to retain it's value. As they say, "things are only original once". Leo era guitars fall into this category. Things like soldier joints and screws should not be messed with unless there is an issue. Necks should not be removed. If you want your Leo era guitar to be like Leo intended then put away the tools.

As far as replacing the nut goes, heck yes! Get that thing out of there and fit it with something that looks as close to original as possible.

Nighthawks are so nice!

y2kc

Yes, I agree. I too like to keep things as real as possible. That's why I get annoyed when people modify guitars with different pickups and such. If it was born with those pups it should keep them. If you are David Gilmore and make a living playing the guitar I guess you can do what ever the hell you want with your guitar. Otherwise find the sound you want and buy that guitar, even if that's not a G&L. Refins are the worst.

As far as things like nuts go, I am not sure if you can tell with some nuts if they are original or not. I would assume it's the most changed out part other than the strings. So the nut on the Nighthawk looks like plastic therefore I will likely replace it with a TUSQ XL. I just don't see on their web site if they sell specific radius nuts or if I need to do that my self. I saw a good video where the guy taped a bit of sandpaper directly to the fretboard and sanded the flat bottom nut right to the radius of the nut. Then if I cut the nut string slots carefully I can follow the radius, I think there are some tricks for that too.

Any other suggestions from the forum would be appreciated.

Not sure when I will get around to it in reality but I will post results after it's done.

Tom