94 ASAT Classic Body project.

Hi gang. Well, I've jumped in on a body mod project on a 94 Classic I recently picked up. It had a cherryburst finish, ash body, 7.5 radius maple neck, an extra cavity routed for a middle pickup, along with extra hole in the control plate. It had an extra set of pickguard holes from I'm guessing a Tele pickguard. I also have the extra pickguard and pickup but no plans to reinstall. I also discovered (and have since read here) the Fender control plate is not the same size as this one. A bit shorter, while it would cover the cavity, not by much and not with the same holes. Anyway, being a luthier of sorts, I build custom exotic wood Ukuleles, and have built several basses, a walnut body strat (yes, it is heavy!), I have the tools and experience to dive into something like this.
So, while the finish wasn't bad, I couldn't resist (tho I almost did) stripping it. I am planning to put a beautiful spalted quilted Maple drop top on it. I also will make it a no pickguard top, meaning routing a cavity from the back for controls. Now comea frew options available to decide on. This is where I'm interested in your input and opinions.
First,
1.) belly contour?
2.) Route chambers to make it a semi hollow?
3.) Any other mods you wish you had? I do plan to stick with original pickups and controls.

A few pics:

Removing finish..


Nice bookmatched Ash body


Back wiped with mineral spirits


Surprisingly tight grained..


Top before next steps. I will have to plane some of the top off to accomadate the new drop top, once it's prepared. This would be the time if desired to route out a chamber for semi hollow. I could even leave the middle route for the extra pickup open and connect to the chamber(s). Kind of like a Bose wave radio!! I don't know if I want to go that route ( no pun intended) yet, but, before the drop top goes on would be the chance to do it. Anybody with experience here chime in please.

So, what do you think?
JP

Hi,

My only comment would be not to route the body for a semi-hollow, as spalted wood is not always structurally sound. I would be afraid of it caving in at some point while being played hard.

Just a thought.

edg

Good Point Ed. I'm waiting for the drop top to arrive, so I'll get a good look. It should be 1/4 to 3/8 thick when finished. I guess bracing could be applied also, but probably not worth it, and could be risky.
Thanks!

JP

Thanks for the input Tim. I guess I'm leaning toward leaving it a solid body, as you guys suggest. I may leave the routed 3rd pickup cavity under the drop top, making it easier if I or someone wanted to add another pickup. I am planning to use no pickguard or control plate cover, so as much of the wood shows as possible. But I would leave enough room in the pot cavity for another pot if needed. I'l have to plan out the layout, and the switch position, but have seen some other posted pics that give a good example. Regarding the belly contour, I have read on other forums, about positioning the curve farther forward than a strat, and before marking position, to strap on the guitar and see where it hits the belly. Still debating that, but I think it would be a little more comfortable, and less like a slab of 2X12.
Thanks guys! I'll post more pics as it progresses.

Nice work on the finish stripping - what did you use?

Hi Jamie,
Heat Gun! It softens up the finish, and as you can see you then can just scrape it away in strips with a putty knife leaving a very clean surface, mostly. The colored edges did seem a bit harder, but still took a half hour or so to take off completely. Much easier than trying a chemical stripper. I read about it on Stew Mac.
I am also thinking about maybe putting a Koa binding around the top edge. In reviewing the drop top I ordered, it's actually mostly quilted, figured maple , and not much spalting. So, if I decided to go semi hollow, I don't think the top would be a problem in strength.

Jon

Hi Pereyra, You may be able to help me. I have a 2004 Tribute ASAT Classic Korean made, but I dont have the original pickguard. Someone before I bought the guitar had fitted a fender telecaster pickguard to cover up some shoddy work.

I have been chasing a template of the original on the web, but these dont seem to exist, at least for my model.

If you have the original G&L pickguard, assuming you dont want to sell it, could you trace out the outline on paper as a template and I can send you by air mail a self addressed pre-paid envelope (Im in Australia) for you to put it in ?

If its a hassle, no problem, I will keep looking and hoping.

Regards,

Don

donnyb,

This source might work. Or if you can find one on ebay in any material whether you like it or not you can use it as a template. You need a Tribute ASAT Classic PG for a template to send in with an order if you want to get something the G&L supplier Pickguard Heaven which would open up their wide selection of materials to you. I see you are in Australia so maybe this is impractical.

Good luck

Thanks Salmon. Funny enough, I have currently got that one on my ebay watch list , awaiting a reply from the Seller to a question Ive sent regarding its (Item B) dimensions, all holes to holes, as Im in Australia, and its not a cheap pickguard if its not exactly right. Ive read that there are several variants for ASAT Tribute Classics pickguards.

Will see first if Pereyra can assist as he has indicated he has the original pickguard off the guitar at the moment. If I can get a template, I can make it OK.

Thanks for your post.

Don

If there is a # on the back of the pickguard, that is all pickguard heaven needs to make a duplicate

For the Tributes they require the original pickguard.

All "Tribute" asian import models require the original guard be sent for duplication.

Thanks Jeff. My ASAT is a Korean made, 2003-2004. Pereyra, is there a number on the back of your pickguard? ?

Hey Don, sorry it took so long to reply. I actually had the same problem. The original appears to have been replaced by a Fender Tele. There were other holes under the pickguard. So, I came to the same conclusion you have. I don't know where you can find one, I remember looking on ebay, probably the places you were. I also don't know if the USA '94 version I have is the same as the '04 you have. Either way, I don't have an original or I would be glad to send you a template. I will not be using a pickguard on this body. I have just got the figured redwood drop top on, and am working on putting a strip of figured Koa binding around the edge of the top. I'll post more pics soon.
Later and good luck!
Jon

I like my WR with belly cut and forearm contour. Works really well and doesn't feel like a plank with pickups.

Pereyra, Thanks for your reply re the pickguard. I have been subsequently helped out Iin Australia by a chap who sent me a high resolution scan of his same model tribute pickguard. Printed it off, and tried it out over the body screw holes, neck pocket and bridge location, and its a dead match. So I will make a template from it, and then get a blank laser cut, unless someone has a better idea for the cutting process.

I like the look of your guitar - stripped mine the same way. Could you keep posting your results and photos please?

Also, I am looking now for quality white pearloid blank for the pickguard . Any recommendations fellow G&L'ers ?

Good job. I vote no on chambering as I don't feel it adds that much and can have issues if you play the guitar live.

I like that body with the three pup routes. I'm looking for just such a body now for a shop guitar I can use for experiments and/or change out stuff with little stress.

Are you gonna paint that with poly or nitro? I sure like that Cherry Burst color. I too would like to see photos of your work in progress.

Zippy

Morning Guys (and gals if applicable). I am posting a few pics here today. I decided after some deliberation to make it a thinline. I know there may be issues with feedback onstage, but I rarely play out, when I do it's bass or acoustics anyway. I also have a strat I built, which I will have to include a pic of, as it's pretty cool too. I also have an epi LP custom, so the bases are covered on the solid bodies.
I put on a highly figured redwood drop top, left the third route covered, but there if I decide to use it later. I also put a quilted Koa binding on the top edge. I kind of wanted to stay with the tele style, so that's the way I went. I put in a belly cutout on the back, and as it's a droptop, no arm route. I will leave the top clean, no pickguard, so routed out access from the back. I don't have spray equip, as on my Ukes I build, I use a hand rubbed gun stock finish that I have used successfully on guitars also. Lots of wipe on/wipe off coats. I also just finished dressing the frets, level/crown/polish so that's done. I will put on a 4 way switch to add series pickup option.
Here's a few pics.
Jon

Last edited by Pereyra on Tue Feb 04, 2014 3:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Morning Guys (and gals if applicable).

YeeHaw !!

Did you use a template for the f-hole?

It looks lighter , What does the body weigh now ? (and before?)

I like the top, that's some pretty crazy redwood.


elwood

Hey Elwood, I printed out a shot of a guitar with that f-hole and enlarged it to the size I wanted, roughly 6.25", then used it as a template. I'm sure it's not exact, but close enough.
I didn't weigh the body before starting, but it weighs in around 4.5 lbs. now. It should be a little lighter than it was, which was also a goal.
Yeah, it is some crazy wood isn't it!
Jon

Wow. Nice job !

Lets see your Strat too please !

Here's the Strat. Solid Walnut body, birdseye maple neck with abalone markers and Fender headstock logo, Texas special pickups with Eric Clapton tone circuit. Quilted Maple pickguard. Gold/Abalone knobs. Locking Fender tuners. A little heavy, but nice sustain and sound.

Beautiful woods. That redwood is just wild looking. Do you have the active mid-boost circuit in the strat?

Yep, the strat has the Fender active 25db mid boost bd in it.


Yeah, pretty unique redwood on the ASAT.

Jon

This is an awesome project. Keep us posted. Great looking Strat by the way.-- Darwin

nice work Jon !! .... looks beautiful

Double wow on the Strat ! Did you make the neck yourself?

The strat neck is a Mighty Mite 2925 replacement neck. I do build my own necks for the Ukes I make however.

Well, pretty much finished for now. Here's the result.








Plays like a dream. The series pickup addition is nice too.
Later,
Jon

Pereyra my hats off to you for your woodworking skills. You have really turned that guitar into something you want. I think is looks great. How much does it weigh after the chambering? Great project and very unique.-- Darwin

Thanks Darwin in MSP. By the way, I live in upstate NY now, but spent most of my years in WI., went to UW Stout, and spent some wild times in your town! That was the 70's however..
I'll try to get a weight on it soon.
I go for "Unique" in all my instruments I build or modify. I love the variations and endless options of wood, and choose to work with it as an art medium. No two pieces are the same.
Now, back to Ukes!
Jon

Very nice on both guitars. I'm glad you did what made you happy. Excellent.

Zippy

Wow, good stuff. The S-type is too much bling for me, but I love the ASAT.

Would you mind describing your finishing process?

I may change the knobs back to 'Fender style' on the strat, you may be right about the bling.

Anyway, the finish on both is Birchwood Casey sealer, then their Tru-Oil. It's known as a 'Gun stock finish'. It's actually a polymer oil Varnish by chemical makeup. It's a wipe on, wipe off procedure applying many very light coats. These guitars have at least 20 coats. I usually do 2 a day, one morn, one eve. you can build up as many as you want for a thicker, gloss finish, or thinner, as normally done with acoustic instruments ( like the Ukes I build). The cheapest I have found it is thru Sportsmanguide.com.
Thanks for comments everyone. It was a fun project, now back to acoustics for a while.

Later,
Jon

I may change the knobs back to 'Fender style' on the strat, you may be right about the bling.

Anyway, the finish on both is Birchwood Casey sealer, then their Tru-Oil. It's known as a 'Gun stock finish'. It's actually a polymer oil Varnish by chemical makeup. It's a wipe on, wipe off procedure applying many very light coats. These guitars have at least 20 coats. I usually do 2 a day, one morn, one eve. you can build up as many as you want for a thicker, gloss finish, or thinner, as normally done with acoustic instruments ( like the Ukes I build). The cheapest I have found it is thru Sportsmanguide.com.
Thanks for comments everyone. It was a fun project, now back to acoustics for a while.

Later,
Jon

Thanks Jon, your finishes look great.

I recently finished a neck using Formby's "Tung oil" which is very similar to Tru-Oil. I didn't have much luck getting it smooth. When you look in a raking light there are small lines left from where I applied the finish. After a few days of unsatisfactory results I even broke down and bought some 'special application cloths' (pshaw, junk)

Do you have any tips for not leaving little 'lines' behind in the finish or any other way to get it smooth? I've tried going from 2k, 5k grit then polishing compound then wax. Still not glassy enough for me..

I've only go about 7 coats on it though, maybe I just need some more?

BF, I have had recent experience with both Tung Oil and Caseys Tru Oil. When I refinished my Musicman Stingray 5 last fall, the neck wouldn't take a poly (fish eyes) finish. I decided to use Tung oil and experienced what you are describing. It is very thin and builds up very slowly. After more than 10 coats and still no buildup I sanded the neck and started applying Caseys Tru Oil, 2 coats a day. After 2 coats I already had a nice gloss. I applied a total of 10 coats and the results were spectacular. After wet sanding with 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit I hand buffed it. You cannot tell this is a hand applied finish. The gloss is perfect and it is extremely smooth, like a sprayed finish. Here are photos of this neck. -- Darwin

This is what you wrote:

BF, I have had recent experience with both Tung Oil and Caseys Tru Oil. When I refinished my Musicman Stingray 5 last fall, the neck wouldn't take a poly (fish eyes) finish. I decided to use Tung oil and experienced what you are describing. It is very thin and builds up very slowly. After more than 10 coats and still no buildup I sanded the neck and started applying Caseys Tru Oil, 2 coats a day. After 2 coats I already had a nice gloss. I applied a total of 10 coats and the results were spectacular. After wet sanding with 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit I hand buffed it. You cannot tell this is a hand applied finish. The gloss is perfect and it is extremely smooth, like a sprayed finish. Here are photos of this neck. -- Darwin

This is what I read:

BF, I have had recent experience with both shell pink and shell pink. When I refinished my shell pink last fall, the neck wouldn't take shell pink finish. I decided to use shell pink and experienced shell pink. It is very shell pink. After more than 10 shell pink and still shell pink, 2 shell pink day. After 2 shell pink coats I already had a nice shell pink. shell pinkshell pinkshell pinkshell pinkshell pinkshell pinkshell pink. -- Darwin

Lord I love the look of that bass.... My next DIY project is going to begin with shell pink and end with shell pink

lol, seriously though, thanks for the tip. I'll try Tru-Oil on my next go round.

I'll try Tru-Oil on my next go round.

Louis mentioned he's used the spray can version as a last coat, and even before final polish it's pretty good to go.
I've only used the wipe on product so far, but I trust Louis' advice.

Nice ASAT. All of that work documented in pictures makes me tired. The final result is so cool looking.

Almost nice Strat. Someone mentioned "too much bling" with the Strat. I think the quilted pickguard is wrong for that guitar. The pattern is too large and it grabs too much attention. You have multiple types of wood specialties (i.e. quilting, birdseye, a body finish that exemplifies the wood and grain of the body wood). It is like a series of multi-sylabable words shouted without pause. The actual bling (knobs, inlay, hardware) needs to be balanced with simplicity, typically a solid rather than a pattern when found on things in the world. As it stands it is a fine crafted Homermobile. I think you should remove the bum player so the team can win the championship. Replace the quilted pickguard with a cream pickguard and you will reduce conflict and create space to appreciate the beauty of the other parts.

Points taken.. thanks for the suggestions.
Jon

Love the no compromise semi-hollow AND belly cut. Very cool final product Jon.

Thanks brother..